I'm almost embarrassed to admit that it came out of the ground in just a few seconds. I'm not big nor do I want to put too much strain on this new knee so I refused to even think about lifting it. The two guys who are here doing the work that the Psycho Painter f*!@ed up literally picked it right up out of the ground and dropped it. No problem. I suppose that means Soul Brother #1 and I could have done that. I really didn't want to chance it though. Now all we have to do is have someone haul it away.
Surf's up! I'm sure everyone knows that. I've been out in it for the last two days. I probably won't paddle out tomorrow. I can't deal with the crowds. I'll admit to channeling a bit of my inner wave hog today. I didn't go for everything . . . just everything big. I snagged at least two of the meatier set waves. I suppose I could have allowed others to take them. But when it's crowded, surf etiquette goes right out the window. I spent too many years being the nice one in the lineup. Now, I take mine. If the wave is clearly yours or if we're both on the wave, I'll beat a hasty retreat. But, I'm sorry, if I'm reading the waves, seeing where the big ones will break and sitting in the correct spot while others sit further inside because they've incorrectly assumed that's where the waves will break, I'm not going to let the wave pass me by. If the wave breaks here, you need to sit here. If I know to sit there to wait for the better waves, do you really think I'm going to advise you where to sit or give you the wave when I know you'll miss it (because you've not watched the horizon and paddled out to meet the approaching bomb)? No, I'm going to hope that you paddle over to fight it out with this bunch . . .
so I can keep on finding waves I don't have to share with 10 of my new best friends!