27 December 2009

Epic Swell? No Comment

Obviously, Santa is a practical joker. I was not at all impressed by today's waves. Wait! I won't blame Santa. I'll blame the forecasters. In fact, I won't even blame them. I'll just politely point out that they were mistaken about what they thought would be a noteworthy swell. What I saw out there today wasn't it . . . even if people told me I got the "wave of the day".

Check this out! That's my boy Ozzie shredding at 46 years old. I love that!! It's easy to rip and run when you're in your teens, 20's and 30's. It gets a bit harder in your 40's. It's not just that time ravages your body. (Face it, all that ripping and running we did in our younger days catches up with us later.) By middle age, we tend to have more responsibilities that take us away from the things we did in our younger years. Not so with Ozzie and so many of us who are now firmly in our middle years. I have no interest in slowing myself down until both my body and my brain tell me it's time to do so. As long as I can hit it hard (and you can define "it" however you'd like), I'll do that.

3 Comments:

At 12/27/09, 7:49 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

thnx. i owe it all to caffeine! Ozzie

 
At 12/28/09, 10:54 AM, Anonymous surf lessons los angeles said...

Nice, I hope I'm agile when I'm older too!

 
At 12/29/09, 6:25 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

JUst a surf report from up north-
It's Jonas- in Yachats/Florence...surf is way overhead, scary from the beach, but perfect...more scary (and colder from the water) when you paddle out.
Maybe its heading your way- I'll have photos later.

 

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