10 December 2009


We criticize the donkeys for doing it, but we applaud when the pros do it?

I'm just sayin'.


At 12/11/09, 1:26 AM, Blogger pranaglider said...

It's ok someone shouted "Party Wave!" first

At 12/11/09, 8:14 AM, Blogger Le Vyusher said...

Probably the only place this is tolerated, and Malibu. hahaha

At 12/11/09, 8:57 PM, Blogger Surfy Surfy! said...

10 years ago a middle aged beginner on a soft top and floral floppy hat told me, "Swamis is just like Waimea, 4 people on a wave is okay."

At 12/11/09, 11:32 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I think at this size it is probably harder to pull back at the last second. I think when you decide to go you just go. Another reason may be that if you do pull bck you may get caught inside by a set. Just my thoughts


At 12/12/09, 3:32 PM, Blogger pabs said...

It's funny how you can go back to the beginning of surfing in Hawaii, even the original Palos Verde crew in Cali, and see that all of them shared the stoke and the wave...guess as things got crowded, the idea of a party wave became less tolerable.


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