Question
We criticize the donkeys for doing it, but we applaud when the pros do it?
I'm just sayin'.
posted by Surfsister @ 21:20
5 comments
BLACK PEOPLE DON'T SURF
(Did I stutter?)
10 December 2009
We criticize the donkeys for doing it, but we applaud when the pros do it?
I'm just sayin'.
5 Comments:
It's ok someone shouted "Party Wave!" first
Probably the only place this is tolerated, and Malibu. hahaha
10 years ago a middle aged beginner on a soft top and floral floppy hat told me, "Swamis is just like Waimea, 4 people on a wave is okay."
I think at this size it is probably harder to pull back at the last second. I think when you decide to go you just go. Another reason may be that if you do pull bck you may get caught inside by a set. Just my thoughts
Mick
It's funny how you can go back to the beginning of surfing in Hawaii, even the original Palos Verde crew in Cali, and see that all of them shared the stoke and the wave...guess as things got crowded, the idea of a party wave became less tolerable.
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