Your Home Break is So Flat . . .
that when Jesus went to walk on it, he said "You call this an ocean?" before walking away in disgust.
What? Not funny.
Well neither is the lack of anything to ride!
posted by Surfsister @ 06:35
6 comments
6 Comments:
Glad I didn't try to drive down for a pre-work session.
Who'm' I kidding anyway, I couldn't get out of bed. Cold!
If it were perfect and reeling everyday, then surfing wouldn't be the dynamic activity, sport, lifestyle, religion (pick your definition), that has spawned the addiction.
Hey there I just wanted to send you a quick note to thank you for your blog. I discovered it when looking for younger people who have had knee replacements. I'm going in for my right knee this Friday, and I'm a bit nervous about it. I'm 31 years old. Reading your experiences made me feel a lot more at ease. Like you said, most of what is on the internet is older seniors, so their experiences aren't as helpful. Thanks again and I hope you're doing well now with the new knee!
Hey surf sister it was great to meet you today at my home break. Would have been nice to share a wave with you but there is always tomorrow. I was the guy that said hello as you and SB#1 were heading up the trail. Peace and chicken grease.
Soul Arch Matt
Hey, Matt!! It was nice to meet you too! You know what's weird? When I first saw you, I had a strange feeling, like a quick flash of familiarity. I guess I picked up on your vibe of recognition.
I had a great session. The place was empty when I got there. I had the first 30 minutes to myself. After others paddled out, I had a peak to myself. Nope! I'm never going to kiss and tell. Never!!
Super fun out there today and such a beautiful day. Thin crowd for about another 45 minutes then the whole of LA decended on the spot. Its supposed to fill in good tomorrow so hint, hint. I may need to get some shortboard time tomorrow if it gets really good so not sure I will be there. Enjoy it wherever you go.
S.A.Matt
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