05 November 2009

I Am a Woman of My Word


I said I would paddle out today in spite of all of that would normally prompt me to turn around and go home. As usual, I went home satisfied. There were waves. Small waves, yes. Makes no matter to me in the long run. One can only stay dry for so long. Then you paddle out because you must.

The tide eventually got so high that I quickly tired of waiting for my one last wave. I paddled in, knowing if I sat there waiting for a wave I'd be in the water at least another 20 minutes.

Thank you, Mother Ocean, for sending something surfable. I don't require big waves. All I wanted was a wave . . . or two . . . or three. What I got was good enough.


What's that you say? My hair changed color? Yes, it did. I'm no longer a sun-bleached blonde. Give me another month in the chlorine, salt water and sun. The blonde locks will start to make a comeback whether I like them or not.

10 Comments:

At 11/5/09, 11:55 AM, Blogger Run.Haole.Run said...

beautiful pics! The b&w photos fit the mood and the color of the sky/water.

 
At 11/5/09, 12:11 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

It was such a cloudy, gray day that they look like black and white photos, don't they? Check the board. Do you see color?

 
At 11/5/09, 5:06 PM, Blogger Christian said...

Awesome. Wet is better than dry any day of the week.

 
At 11/5/09, 6:14 PM, Blogger Bill said...

glass ...

 
At 11/6/09, 6:07 AM, Blogger pranaglider said...

looks bigger than down here

 
At 11/6/09, 9:36 AM, Blogger tres_arboles said...

Reminds me of summer here. Right now it's major, mostly unsurfable hugeness. Like you, my pool time is on the rise.

 
At 11/6/09, 11:09 AM, Blogger nm said...

great pics! love the top one...

 
At 11/6/09, 12:01 PM, Blogger pabs said...

that top pic looks like a homage to my "lonely longboard" pic on my blog...surfsister, thanx for keeping me humble in my exile.

 
At 11/8/09, 1:10 PM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

That first photo is such a beautiful portrait! I am happy for you.

 
At 12/13/09, 6:11 PM, Blogger rebeccajane said...

Yo that!

 

Post a Comment

<< Home