BLACK PEOPLE DON'T SURF
(Did I stutter?)
14 May 2013
13 May 2013
Jim Denevan Again!
11 May 2013
06 May 2013
I Left My Heart in San . . . a Town Further Up the Coast
You've got to love a town with a decent surf statute. After seeing all that's done about and to the Cardiff Kook, it was nice to see such a bad ass work of art related to surfing. I was even told that if I got up close enough, I could see up that dude's shorts. (Yeah, like there was anything to see!)
We went into a liquor store at one point. This cup was sitting right in front of the cash register. I didn't even ask about it. I simply smiled and made sure to take a picture.
I wanted to do an extended blog post about this, my first bona fide, surf trip. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to take my camera. I got on the road at 4:30 a.m. About seven hours later, I arrived at my destination. I'd been told to be there by noon. Low tide was at noon; the waves would be best then. I pulled into the parking lot around 11:30. I think we finally paddled out at 12:30.
It was the best surf trip ever! Granted, it was my first surf trip, but I don't think any trip could get much better than this one. My only regret is that I didn't get a chance to meet Steiny face-to-face.
20 April 2013
Knee Replacement: Four Years Later
14 April 2013
I know there was a point in time when I reached a crossroads regarding surfing. I'd initially thought I would surf shortboards, so my first serious board was in the midlength range. In my mind, I was going to start at that length and work my way down. I mean, I'd been athletic my entire life. I've always been powerful. It's rare that I finesse a thing. I will muscle my way through; that's always the default for me given my body type. If you're going to take power into surfing, it's a good bet that you'll be trying to rip waves to shreds on a shortboard, right? Yeah, well, I remember watching a shortboarder tearing a wave up at my home break. He looked good. I thought that's how I wanted to surf.
Until I realized that I didn't . . . want to surf that way, that is. In a moment of clarity, I gave myself over to the truth. I didn't want to tear up waves. I wanted something different. Style. Grace.
I had nowhere else to go but up. In length.
That is when I turned my attention to longboards. And now, some umpteen years later, I prefer single fin longboards with glassed on fins.
Let's rewind a bit.
So, here I was. I wanted to ride longboards. I wanted to surf them like I thought they should be surfed. Granted, I tried going the high performance route. I didn't like it. I'm one of those who thinks a longboard should not be confused for a long shortboard. Then again, I'm also one who believes people should ride what they damn well please, never worrying about the rest of us think.
(You know I'm just rambling at this point, right? I mean, I only intended to talk about the photo, but have gotten way off track.)
Traditional longboarding just kind of suits me. I'm rather fascinated by the boards. I love everything about them. The idea of having to walk around on the deck simply amuses me to no end. I also believe that my natural power is well served by these somewhat heavy boards. I'm not throwing the board around to tear up the wave, but I am nonetheless making the board do what I ask of it.
The reason I posted this photo is to show that I've finally got the bottom turn on lock. I remember being beside myself, once I'd decided my surfing should lean toward traditional longboarding, because I could not do a decent bottom turn. I'd see people doing them in films. I thought, and still think, a good bottom turn is one of the coolest things you can do on a single fin longboard. Well, I couldn't do one. And this made me sad.
I decided I would have to learn to do one, first, and then learn to do one with style. Hence, I worked on that damn bottom turn. It's not like I was surfing with good longboarders from whom I could learn this. I was surfing mainly with folks on my own level. And you don't pick up stuff from people whose surfing is as mediocre as your own. Over the years, though, I kept at it, surfing different breaks, watching other surfers, knowing what I needed to work on when I was out in the water. I don't know when I was able to consistently do a bottom turn with some style. It happened over time I guess.
Every once in awhile, I'll see a photo of me working that bottom turn. I can't help but smile; I clearly remember when I couldn't do one to save my life. That photo above lets me know that my focused work paid off.
Now if I could just get my butt to the nose of the board and stay there without going into a state of panic. Yeah, I've been working on that. I hope to soon enough have photos that show how that work has paid off as well. First, though, I have to get a dedicated noserider. (Right now, I ride a pig. Getting and staying on the nose of a pig isn't as easy as it would seem.) There are three of you backyard shapers who have said you will shape one for me. I'm also looking at a fourth shaper as my back-up to the others.
2013 is the year when I try to rebuild my quiver. I sold off boards last year in order to pay bills. I also sold one of my other pigs this year. My quiver is now a small one without a single fin noserider. I will remedy that situation before the summer. I'm getting another Paul Gross hull, an 8' hull that is slightly asymmetrical, within the next month. Those two additions will be enough. They will keep me covered for sure. Unless something falls in my lap and is basically free, I won't be getting any other boards in the foreseeable future.
T, you will now be the one who's the board whore. (Yeah, I said it!)
02 April 2013
Just When I Thought Surf Blogs Had Passed Their Usefulness to the Point of Absurdity . . .
I find a pearl.
Actually, I find many pearls in surf blogs, including my own. The issue for me now is that I've been at it for about eight years. The world as we know it has changed quite a bit since I started blogging. Those changes are especially apparent in the way we now communicate.
There was no Facebook when I began this journey in 2005. If you wanted to talk about surfing, you blogged about it. There was no such thing as a tweet. Flickr was the only place I stored photos. I had no big interest in sharing them. Now? Instagram is all the rage.
I now walk that fine line between wanting the immediate feedback that is certain when you have 500 "Friends" and wanting to simply put some thoughts out into the ether without caring who sees them. This is probably why I seem to have a love/hate relationship with my blog.
This is not even what I was trying to talk about in this post! See, this is another reason why I love blogging. You can just run your mouth as long as you damn well please. It's your space. You make the rules. If other folks don't like what you've said, they can write their own blogs.
Anyway . . .
one does find pearls.
I do read past entries in other folks' blogs. I would do it more often with this blog, but this blog is just so damn long! I seriously can't even keep up. It's easier to read my friends' blogs. They jog my memory almost as well as my own blog does.
The pearl I found in T's blog?
Oh, I was given a new rule for dropping in on others-"They gotta a leash on? Go!"
"When they get good enough to surf without one....well..."
Makes sense to me.
Then, there's the pearl I found in B's blog:
Back to School
This may truly be the very best three words in surfing! Theoretically thinning the crowd, but between high unemployment and home schooling you might be hard pressed to see the difference, especially on a good swell. Back to school is a particularly welcomed phrase as it points to the changing of the of the seasons, a return to NW swells and variable winds more common in the fall.
Blogs have a certain permanence that I found comforting. As a result, I can see the evolution of each blogger over the years. I include myself in that too.
I'm not giving up on this blogging thing just yet. I am seriously not done talking about surfing!
Pray for surf worth blogging about.