10 November 2009

I Don't Kiss and Tell

I'm that much of a lady.

It's true.

Right. You're wondering what the hell I'm talking about. Believe it or not, I'm still talking about surfing. Today's session was at a break that's new to me, a break I've wanted to surf for years but couldn't because I didn't quite know where it was. To make a long story short, the sister-in-law of a friend I've made through the knee replacement process took me there. I was there on Sunday for my first session. I was undergunned on my eight-oh hull. Therefore, my session was not one with which I was happy when I got out of the water. We'd already decided to go back today. I was not going to be denied. I brought out the big gun (my longboard hull) for today's assault. Victory!! It was the best session I've had in awhile. Everything came together: cool people, well-shaped waves, clean water and a board that would not be denied.

Where was I? If I told you, I'd have to kill you.

Now look, it's not a secret spot. In a city as large as L.A., there are few, if any, secret spots what with cams, surf reports and word-of-mouth. This is a somewhat well-known spot. I was lucky enough to catch it on a relatively uncrowded day. Out of respect to the regulars who surf there (and other spots I visit save Malibu), I wouldn't dare mention the name of the break. To do so would hardly be ladylike.

Therein lies the quandary. We all have surf buddies who feel it's our duty to travel to every break, especially new ones, together. Yes, you can do that, but should you always do that? I say no. One of my surf friends seems never to have learned the rules of the wave. She sees a wave and she just goes. It seems to mean nothing to her that, for instance, there was someone to her left who had priority. For her, it's all about wave count and being noticed. She's dying to hit up this spot. Would I take her there? Hell no! If presented with the philosophical question of being loyal to a break full of people you don't know and being loyal to a friend who could potentially wreak havoc, I'm going to be the utilitarian. I choose the thing that provides the greatest good for the greatest number of people. In other words, I'm not even telling my friend that I've been surfing this break. I don't care if you call me a bad friend. Perhaps I am. However, I am a conscientious surfer who wants to be able to return to this break at will. People got to know me today. I don't want to sully that positive first impression. It's all about respect. I respect the people who are the locals or regulars at a particular break. I don't want people dragging all of their friends to my home break. I won't drag my friends to other people's quiet breaks either.


At 11/11/09, 9:59 AM, Blogger Christian said...

A secret spot? I thought you said you wouldn't write about County Line. Now everyone will know. Dammit!

At 11/16/09, 7:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

you are a bad friend but i like you for it. Soulglider

At 11/18/09, 2:11 PM, Blogger Julie said...

If you are talking about the spot I think you are, I agree not to bring people there. I've seen people drive up with their friends and immediately start showing them where the wave is blah blah blah and its blatantly against the culture of the place. Some places are meant to be surfed in their natural beauty, OTHERS are for socializing. I'm glad someone out there can respect it.

At 11/18/09, 6:44 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I don't know if we're talking about the same spot, Julie. However, I would never out anyone's spot to a whole bunch of folks. That's just wrong and disrespectful, especially given the crowds we all must contend with these days.

The Place Which Shall Remain Nameless is a gem. I love that you can get a wave to yourself there. I will never ever reveal it to more than one or two people max (and NEVER on this blog).


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