19 November 2009

I Heart Uncrowded Lineups

What's significant about this picture? Nothing really. Okay, yeah, I'm going left yet again. But here's the rub: I'm going left at a break where everyone goes right . . . even when a left rolls through. I've even had someone tell me I couldn't go left there. Whatever.

I called it again today. This time, I stayed closer to home. I knew the place would start breaking in the early afternoon. I was once again rewarded for my foresight with wave after wave to myself. Yeah, there were people there. Most of them were further north at the spot that so many seem to consider the proving ground. Not me. I want space. If the crowd's over there, I'll surf over here. I went left. I went right. I communed with a seal. I clapped and cheered when the set waves approached. I was out there having a surf party for one (and enjoying every minute of it). I was eventually joined by others, but I was already plotting my exit by then.

And, as you can see, I remain the most graceful surfer in the water.

3 Comments:

At 11/19/09, 10:52 PM, Blogger tango said...

Hola Surfsister! Your waves look so....fun. I haven't paddled out yet physically...but mentally I'm there. I'm thinkin that next month that these (my) 2 bionic knees/legs will be ready!!!!!!!!! I drove down south from Los Osos (my home) yesterday to Camarillo and back today....the ocean was looking Sweet! Peace and Love - tango

 
At 11/21/09, 5:21 PM, Blogger Bill said...

beautiful rotated cannon ball

 
At 12/2/09, 3:35 AM, Blogger Eef said...

VERY gracefull, i'm jalous!

Eef
mosnterboards.org

 

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