30 December 2009

"Well All Right" Dance Party


I'd never heard the complete Blind Faith album until a few days ago. Oh.my.god. Was I raised Amish and without electricity? How do you cram so much perfection into one album? How?

This year is coming to a close. It's always a relief to let another year pass even though that means another year of my life passed with it. Life fascinates me. I'm interested to see how all of this will turn out. And while I don't want to die tomorrow, I am not fearful of my senior years. I often wonder how I'll feel about the younger and middle aged Surfsister once I'm an old woman (who'll probably still wear Vans as my footwear of choice).

I had two good surf sessions over the last two days. Yesterday's session at RPB was one in which I felt "on". I saw a wave. I got the wave. I saw another wave. I got that one too. And that one. And the other. And several more. I did all of this without being too much of a wave hog. Today's session at TPWSRN was interesting. Victory at Sea conditions prevailed. Nevertheless, the break delivered waves with some semblance of shape. My last wave was a screamer. Really, a screamer. When I made the drop and noticed the wave was over my head, I started screaming. As it closed out in front of me and I straightened out in time to save myself from a pounding, I started screaming even louder! I couldn't kick out of that wave either. It was too powerful. All I could do was hang on as it took me most of the way in. As I stood there, I was thinking I should just end the session with that wave. In other words, I mentally checked out. So what happened? I then tried to paddle back out, got caught on the inside and slowly but surely ran out of steam. I eventually came to my senses and bellied it in.

I'm looking forward to 2010. I know I don't have a job . . . or money . . . or what most Americans would consider a future. I generally live in the moment. My most recent moments have been happy ones. Most of my moments are happy ones. Perhaps in my next life I'll be a grouch, but not this one.

Surf like you mean it. I do.

5 Comments:

At 12/31/09, 6:46 AM, Blogger pranaglider said...

nice

 
At 12/31/09, 6:49 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great blog Surfsister, i love the way you think! Happy New Year for 2010.

 
At 12/31/09, 1:34 PM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

Listening to this music and reading what you had to say made me feel right in the moment. I'm going to surf like I mean it in 2010. Thank you.

 
At 12/31/09, 2:27 PM, Blogger tres_arboles said...

Swimming tons. Hope you have happy new year!

david

 
At 1/7/10, 8:40 AM, Blogger CP said...

Weirdly I had a very similar "blind faith" moment on the 30th! One of our channels ran the movie of that concert and i randomly watched it & was blown away!

Happy 2010, keep up the great blog.
http://adventuresintrim.blogspot.com

 

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