10 August 2005

Oh, There Are Waves Alright—

just not here in L.A. The best I could do today was paddle from the Second Point to the pier and back. Malibu was flat. I don't even know why we got in. I did enjoy myself. I got to chat with a man named Mark who's been surfing since 1956. We chatted for awhile and got to know each other. I watched people paddle furiously for bumps in the water that were, I kid you not, smaller than boat wakes. Still, the sun was out and the water was clean. I got two or three waves. On one of them, I told the kid next to me that he and I would go together (since everyone else had paddled for that little wave thing that preceded our little wave thing). So he and I went for it. And we made it. And when it was over, he turned around to see if I'd gotten it too. Then we both smiled. Now see, that's what I love about surfing! Even on a day when the waves are nonexistent, you can find something to smile about.


At 8/10/05, 9:28 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

Well, at least you got out there. I think I'm going to wait till Friday when I can get above Point Dume. Everything else in L.A. looks flat, flat, flat.

At 8/12/05, 1:23 AM, Blogger Hawaiianmark said...

Even paradise sucks in surf right now.

Winter - T minus days and counting...



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