That Ain't No Swell!

A decent SW swell is supposed to render our little beach break utterly unsurfable (is that a word?). The surf reports all said the SW would peak today. That couldn't have been too much of a peak since I was right back at my home break in the weak closeouts. Thankfully, it was an enjoyable session. Okay, so the water temp has gone down, thus sending me back into my long-sleeved springsuit. So the wind was up, thus giving the ocean surface quite a bit of chop. So what? I enjoyed myself. It's all about low expectations. Expect nothing and you'll be thrilled when there's a wave with a shoulder. My mom was with me so my time in the water was limited. I got more than enough waves to satisfy me. In fact, I don't even think I went right today. Now I remember why I love my home break so much: I can go left at will. And I did. The rides today weren't long; the waves did tend to fold over and break in three feet of water. But I got one left that I side-slipped (?) all the way to the shore. When I paddled back out, Zack yelled, "You stayed in the curl all that time? What a great wave! I didn't even see what you were paddling for. I thought there was nothing there." A ride like that on a day like this (i.e., closed out and flat, if that's possible) makes the paddle out worthwhile.