03 August 2005

That Ain't No Swell!

A decent SW swell is supposed to render our little beach break utterly unsurfable (is that a word?). The surf reports all said the SW would peak today. That couldn't have been too much of a peak since I was right back at my home break in the weak closeouts. Thankfully, it was an enjoyable session. Okay, so the water temp has gone down, thus sending me back into my long-sleeved springsuit. So the wind was up, thus giving the ocean surface quite a bit of chop. So what? I enjoyed myself. It's all about low expectations. Expect nothing and you'll be thrilled when there's a wave with a shoulder. My mom was with me so my time in the water was limited. I got more than enough waves to satisfy me. In fact, I don't even think I went right today. Now I remember why I love my home break so much: I can go left at will. And I did. The rides today weren't long; the waves did tend to fold over and break in three feet of water. But I got one left that I side-slipped (?) all the way to the shore. When I paddled back out, Zack yelled, "You stayed in the curl all that time? What a great wave! I didn't even see what you were paddling for. I thought there was nothing there." A ride like that on a day like this (i.e., closed out and flat, if that's possible) makes the paddle out worthwhile.

4 Comments:

At 8/3/05, 2:36 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

Due to my and an out-of-towner visiting friend's schedule, we're paddling out this evening to hang out before he leaves. Hope there's something out there to surf. Although, it doesn't look like it. :-(

 
At 8/3/05, 6:05 PM, Anonymous surfnart said...

hey sista. Please stop calling OP shitty. Some of us surfers actually do live and work in the community.
We don't just pay for the $2 surf & go home. We negotiated for that $2 lot. And SMURRF ( know what that is?). We pick up trash & support Heal the Bay.We're working on Surf PE for the high school.
Our taxes give scholarships to legally permitted surf schools and we bring in groms from other neighborhoods to surf. Some of those kids say it was the best day of their lives (even if the waves weren't the best). Every break on the palnet has it's days.stay stoked, OK?

 
At 8/3/05, 6:53 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

1. I label it "shitty" to keep other people from flocking there.
2. I never identify where we surf . . . but you just did.
3. I'm still stoked.

 
At 8/4/05, 10:53 AM, Blogger gracefullee said...

I go in thinking all breaks are shitty. That way, when I get a good wave at any one of them, I have a stellar time.

 

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