02 August 2005

You Call That a Swell?

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I didn't see much of anything out there today. I went to the home break with the Tyler in tow. Look!!! There's one now! One what? One itsy bitsy closeout wave!!! Well, hell, what am I standing here for? I'm going to suit up right now!

I was quite underwhelmed by what I saw. I acted like I was undecided, but I knew I wasn't going in. I watched folks from my crew take short little rides. I saw nothing worthwhile. That brings up a question: Am I getting spoiled? Between LPB, RPB, Malibu, San O, Bay Street, Topanga, the Breakwater, and beaches down south (in the South Bay), I've gotten the chance to experience waves of different shapes and sizes. Now when I go to my home break, I'm often thoroughly dissatisfied. Then again, I might just be mad because it's flat . . . everywhere. And my home break was the sight of my first cheater five so I'm not complaining too much.

It's just as well that it's flat. I'm a bit tired these days. So I'm taking the day off. Okay, that's a bit of a lie. I got on the rowing machine after coming back home. Five minutes of rowing was all I needed to realize I'm tired and need to take a day off again. The swell—is it really a swell?—is supposed to peak tomorrow. Perhaps there'll be a little something out there.

7 Comments:

At 8/2/05, 12:05 PM, Blogger gracefullee said...

I don't think it's really a swell. It was like knee-high at Sunset at 6am. Eh. I just needed something with a little shoulder so I could learn how to not suck on this borrowed board.

Oh, and who's the dude surfing on your background picture? The first time I saw it, I cracked up.

 
At 8/2/05, 12:20 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I have no idea who it is. I stole the picture from the Harbour Surfboards site. I love this picture. The big boy is doin' it!

 
At 8/2/05, 1:06 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

You've listed some pretty decent breaks there, Sis. Your home break will almost never measure up to some of them. Spoiled? No. Just a reflection of the quality of your home break.

Not to shit talk or anything about it...just sayin'.

 
At 8/2/05, 2:26 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Well, Whiff, our break really is shitty. Gracefullee will concur. But, it's home and that counts for something . . . I think. LPB really opened my eyes to what a good wave looks like up close. Now I'm craving more sessions like that. I'm not asking for much, really. I just want a wave that I can ride for longer than two seconds.

 
At 8/2/05, 2:44 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

LPB rules. :-)

 
At 8/3/05, 11:39 AM, Blogger crustyripper said...

LPB sounds really nice - where did you say it was? I think I'll drive up with some of my buddies.

 
At 8/3/05, 12:44 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

If we told you, we'd have to kill you, Crusty! When are you coming this way? Shoot me some email.

 

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