You Call That a Swell?

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I didn't see much of anything out there today. I went to the home break with the Tyler in tow. Look!!! There's one now! One what? One itsy bitsy closeout wave!!! Well, hell, what am I standing here for? I'm going to suit up right now!

I was quite underwhelmed by what I saw. I acted like I was undecided, but I knew I wasn't going in. I watched folks from my crew take short little rides. I saw nothing worthwhile. That brings up a question: Am I getting spoiled? Between LPB, RPB, Malibu, San O, Bay Street, Topanga, the Breakwater, and beaches down south (in the South Bay), I've gotten the chance to experience waves of different shapes and sizes. Now when I go to my home break, I'm often thoroughly dissatisfied. Then again, I might just be mad because it's flat . . . everywhere. And my home break was the sight of my first cheater five so I'm not complaining too much.

It's just as well that it's flat. I'm a bit tired these days. So I'm taking the day off. Okay, that's a bit of a lie. I got on the rowing machine after coming back home. Five minutes of rowing was all I needed to realize I'm tired and need to take a day off again. The swell—is it really a swell?—is supposed to peak tomorrow. Perhaps there'll be a little something out there.