Sunshine! Who Would've Thunk It?
I am tempted to say today was a perfect day in the water. Yes, I did make a trip or two to the nose, but that had nothing to do with it. I'm not that hard to please, really. Three things I truly appreciate were present during today's session:
1. Sunshine/warm weather;
2. Happy people; and
3. Good enough (not great) waves.
My home break was a little more crowded than I would have liked, yet once I got in I realized that the majority of those people were the regulars. I guess the sun got everyone in the water. I saw people I hadn't seen in months. The weather was glorious. I was in my shorty john (sleeveless springsuit) and really could have done without out. I wore it just in case I got cold. Many of the guys were trunking it. Everyone was in a good mood. I love that. There were more than enough waves coming through to allow all of us to get something. A guy I didn't even know zoomed up behind me while I was on a wave, announced his presence, and then shared it with me before we both kicked out of it. As we paddled back out he said he should have just jumped on my board with me. I told him, he could have since my log is so damn big. There's more than enough room for me and another person on that thing. I love days like these. The session was made better by the presence, once again, of dolphins. They seemd to camp out right behind us. At once point, two dolphins swam right by me—one by my left leg, one by my right leg.
Today's session was somewhat noteworthy in that Captain America approached me and gave me some tips. Why do they call this guy Captain America? I really have no idea. I'd guess it's due to his looks: he's tall, handsome, well-built, and has a deep voice. He's got the stereotypical good looks of a superhero. I was surprised by his attention to my surfing. When he first came to our break, we all hated him. He was a wave hog with a bad attitude. Then one of the true locals told him about himself and Captain America's been nice ever since. Anyway, I know I said a few weeks ago that I want the better longboarders to tell me where I can improve. In fact, it occurs to me that the reason they are schooling me now is that I've improved enough to incorporate their suggestions into my surfing. They're seeing me doing things I couldn't do even as recently as three months ago. One thing Captain America pointed out is that I'm often trying to turn the log from the middle of the board. I then end up digging a rail and falling in. Even I know good and well that you can't turn a single fin log from anywhere but the back of the board. But I'm so intent now on working my way toward the nose that I pop-up harder, thus launching myself to the middle of the board (which, in my mind, is where I want to be since it means my trip to the nose will be shorter than if I pop up in my normal spot closer to the tail). Still, I know he's right and it helps to have someone remind me of what I'm doing wrong. I need to work on walking back to the tail. It's on my surfing "To Do List". Now I'll have to move it to the top of the list.
The funniest sight in the water today was . . . me. I gave up on wearing a hat. My shorty john has no zipper so I had nothing to which I could attach a hat. So I decided I'd just have to get laughed at by the crew. Why? I went out in the water with a stocking cap on! My god, the horror!
Shit, I don't care. I really don't want to mess up the twists. I think I can see the beginning of locks somewhere (or is this just wishful thinking?). I also don't want to stay out of the water. I guess I'm trying to find a happy medium between my hair and surfing. Now I'm trying to decide whether or not I can get a way with wearing a beanie. I know it'll get wet and heavy. All that matters is that I keep these damn twists in place. My only worry is that if a good wave catches me, I'll lose the beanie. You know, that swim cap idea is looking better and better. I've been wearing a stocking cap, for god's sake! A swim cap can't look any dumber than that!