Mellow Session

I got to my home break this morning. I could have gotten in. I could have sat there with everyone else. I could have watched the waves fold over and close out. I could have. I didn't. I decided to head for Sunset since there was a tiny bit of SW swell in the water. As soon as I hit PCH, the traffic came to a stop. Damn!!! I thought about making an illegal right turn up the Incline. I didn't do it. I stayed the course, thinking I'd turn up further and then make my way up and over a hill I know (from my cycling days) that goes straight to Sunset Blvd. The traffic started moving by the time I got to my turn, so once again I stayed the course. There wasn't much going on at Sunset. Still, I'm not hard to please most of the time. What did surprise me was how many rocks are now sitting right at the edge of the concrete platform at the bottom of the stairs. There were so many rocks that I decided not to get in there. Normally, you descend the stairs, stand on the platform, plant your board in the sand and lean it up against the boulders, and then jump down into the sand. As of today, there was no sand down there. Just rocks. Where do you plant your board? I couldn't do it. But I told the woman in front of me to jump down and I'd hand her her board. I realized for me, with the big log, it would be easier to get in at the dirt path at the south end.

It was a good, mellow session. There weren't many people out (probably because there weren't many waves out either). There were only three of us between Dos Baños and the steps. We all took turns picking off the set waves. I got a handful of long rides. I was surprised by that since the waves didn't pack much of a punch. Nevertheless, the Tyler knows what to do at a point break. Even though I was going backside, I went to the nose of couple of times. Nope, I didn't pull those rides off. That's fine. As I said a few days ago, the fear of the nose is long gone. Now I'm simply learning how to judge when I should make a move to the nose. I want to be able to do noserides both frontside and backside. I thought today would be a good day to practice. Nothing spectacular happened out there. But after the frenzy of the contest, it was nice to be in the water surfing for the pure joy of it.