15 July 2005

I Got Nothin' Left

I am all surfed out. This week I surfed for five straight days. I went to three different breaks. It seems like all I've done this week is travel up and down Pacific Coast Highway. CYT and I hit Sunset today. There was no time to travel further. It's just as well since Whiff talked about the crowds further north. The swell is still here. I didn't think much of it. But you can't trust my judgment. By the fifth day of surfing, I'm surfing on fumes. For me, today was about fun. I saw many people I knew in the water and that makes life easier when it's crowded. One guy there was someone who is often at the home break. We know each other's abilities quite well. So when I saw him up and riding, I did what you do to your friends: I dropped in on him. I would never purposely do that to someone I don't know. But you can do that to your friends. Nothing major happened in the water. The real excitement occurred on PCH. Of course, those of us in the water were watching the ocean, waiting for a set. Then there was a loud bang/crunch/car accident sound that prompted all of us to spin around. Some guys in a pick-up were pulling onto PCH and got hit. Then the car that hit them was rear-ended by another car. I hope the guy in the pick-up could at least say his session was a good one. Cos I'm sure the remainder of his day sucked.

I won't be surfing this weekend. It's time to take a break.


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