Life is Good

Guess what? Our computer died. It didn't just have a bad case of indigestion or anything. The hard drive literally gave up the ghost. So here I am, standing in the Apple computer store on Third Street Promenade, writing in the blog. Right now, this is my easiest way onto the internet.

Quick rundown of the last few days: I'm over the neighbors. No one is forgotten, but they're not worth dwelling on. My surf sessions were great. Yesterday's session at Sunset was cool: no one was there. I think there were maybe seven of us in the water. To our surprise, the ocean was still delivering bombs left over from the last swell. Today I hit LPB with CYT. The waves weren't epic, but my session was. Thanks to Captain America, I am finally able to carve up and down the face of a wave. As it turns out, all I should have been doing was standing farther back on the Tyler. Captain Amerca's few little words completely opened up my surfing. At LPB today, I carved up and down waves that were over my head! I easily made turns. The session was perfect. I give it a 10 out of 10. It's almost unbelievable how the reminder to do everything from the tail of the board changed my surfing overnight. I would write more, but I feel kind of silly standing here doing a blog entry. I'm not sure when I'll be back to blog again. The new hard drive is supposed to be delivered by the end of the week.