BLACK PEOPLE DON'T SURF: It Was Nice Knowing You, 2010!!

31 December 2010

It's been fun!!

At 1/1/11, 12:37 PM, christian said...: I love that bottom one! I made an ill-timed duck dive at Venice once and the lip came down on my lower back, just like in your photo. I wasn't right for months. Then again a am rarely "right."

Please, keep bringing us another year of your inspiring wave charging!
At 1/1/11, 2:29 PM, Surfsister said...: Ha ha!! That bottom photo is so funny to me. I was terrified that day. Look at that shorepound. That was the day of the Mat Meet at Cottons, which was firing hard. I still didn't quite know what to do on a mat that day. And, as you can see, I got punished something fierce. If there had been subsequent shots of that few minutes, you would see the mat being ripped from my hands and me staggering out of the water with only one fin on!! Hysterical!!

Still, that was the day when I saw how a mat was supposed to be ridden. The only way to see it done was to suck it up—and I don't deny that I was scared—and get in the water to watch. And I lived!
At 1/1/11, 3:34 PM, Dr Mad Fish said...: Great shot - love the hair!
At 1/1/11, 7:10 PM, Anonymous said...: Amazing photos! Wiping out is humbling and sometimes just down right crazy fun!
At 1/3/11, 12:08 PM, pabs said...: Yeah...great shots of the ocean keeping ya humble! Have had my fair share of "over-the-falls" moments too...scary stuff indeed!