29 December 2010

I Surfed Yesterday . . .

in spite of the tiny "ain't nothin' but a party y'all" waves. When you've waited the suggested 72 hours and more rain is predicted, you just say, "F*@% it! I'm going surfing!" So I did. And now we've just had another couple of buckets of rain. And now that starts the 72 hour clock all over again. And now there's talk of more rain . . . in a little over 72 hours.


I know that only one of my spots is clean even after a rain. Still, I can't always get there, don't always want to drive that far, know that it can't possibly be perfectly clean all the time and just can't help but wonder about why our oceans have to be as dirty as they are. Our oceans can't possibly rebound quickly or easily from all of the damage we humans have done to them. Yet we surfers blithely go on as if we think they can. I've been thinking about this quite a bit of late. We surfers need to get our shit together and be better stewards for the ocean. We bitch and moan about having to stay out of the water. (We all do it. I'm including myself in that.) I see that as a way of focusing the discussion on ourselves . . . when it shouldn't be about us. It should be about protecting the sea. It has no way to protect itself. Perhaps, then, our focus should be on that which gives us the waves to surf. Even if we think we can't protect it, we should try. And I will. Will you?


At 12/30/10, 2:57 AM, Blogger MF said...

I often pick up rubbish when I see it. And I have got into some serious arguments with fishermen who take undersized fish. But I reckon I could do more.

At 12/30/10, 6:56 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

(Hands clapping!) Well said and you hit the nail on the head in many ways! I am always amazed at the garbage I see at the beach on the shore alone from beach goers. Now mind you that the trash gets away from some and blows down a bit, but some of what I see is just debris that could have easily been packed out. If we all packed out what we packed in there would be no problem on shore, but some don't. That some adds up over time. It may seem strange but if I am on the beach going out for a surf or swim and I see trash then it is an immediate detour to claim it and send it on to the trash. There is always the trash that floats in to shore from the ocean as well and then there are areas that suffer due to runoff from city pollutants. I figure even my little act of kindness will prevent another beach goer from cutting their foot on the broken glass or can not to mention the sea creatures. Surfing is such a great platform for ocean and beach conservation. The best thing I did this year was to join the Surfrider Foundation. They act locally, but speak globally! It is a start. I will always continue to pick up trash in my area in hopes that others will see the message: Our beaches and oceans will only be as clean and healthy as we find them and leave them! Great post today! Thanks for the inspiration Surfsister!

At 12/30/10, 8:30 PM, Anonymous Val said...

I have started taking along plastic bags, especially when I surf a pristine and pretty location, and packing out every bit of trash I can get my hands on and carry out. Good wave karma too!

At 12/30/10, 8:54 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

I, too, pick up trash on the beach. It doesn't matter what beach. When I see trash, I try to make it go away. The thing is, our solitary efforts to pick up trash do not spread the word to the population-at-large about the fact that our ocean is in peril. It's not enough to pick up trash. It's not enough to give money to Surfrider. I realize this now. Surfers need to speak up. If surfing is, in fact, a lifestyle, then we need to put our money where are mouths are by fighting for our oceans the way we fight for human rights, animal rights, etc.

It's time for us all to stop being so human-centered with regard to surfing. Period.


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