I Surfed Yesterday . . .
in spite of the tiny "ain't nothin' but a party y'all" waves. When you've waited the suggested 72 hours and more rain is predicted, you just say, "F*@% it! I'm going surfing!" So I did. And now we've just had another couple of buckets of rain. And now that starts the 72 hour clock all over again. And now there's talk of more rain . . . in a little over 72 hours.
I know that only one of my spots is clean even after a rain. Still, I can't always get there, don't always want to drive that far, know that it can't possibly be perfectly clean all the time and just can't help but wonder about why our oceans have to be as dirty as they are. Our oceans can't possibly rebound quickly or easily from all of the damage we humans have done to them. Yet we surfers blithely go on as if we think they can. I've been thinking about this quite a bit of late. We surfers need to get our shit together and be better stewards for the ocean. We bitch and moan about having to stay out of the water. (We all do it. I'm including myself in that.) I see that as a way of focusing the discussion on ourselves . . . when it shouldn't be about us. It should be about protecting the sea. It has no way to protect itself. Perhaps, then, our focus should be on that which gives us the waves to surf. Even if we think we can't protect it, we should try. And I will. Will you?