26 September 2009

How to Surf the Home Break Closeouts





On days like this one, I can't help but question my willingness to believe those who say things like, "In another hour, it will be all time." I, and others, gave it another hour. This is how our session on Thursday looked. We were met with one closeout after another. The tide filled in. The waves kept closing out. Such is my home break.

2 Comments:

At 9/27/09, 11:12 AM, Blogger Worm said...

lets' surf sometime this week. my tupac jacket fits (barely) again so i'm wearing it for the last days of summer

 
At 9/27/09, 8:49 PM, Blogger gracefullee said...

Ah, home sweet home.

 

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