Birthday Surf

It seems like it was weeks ago . . . when it was actually on Thursday. And what a long, but good, day it was. It started out at 5 a.m. when I awoke not with the intention of working out at home before work. No, I'd gotten the green light to surf before work. I didn't care about the conditions. For me it's all about the symbolism of doing what you want on your day.

I didn't check too many spots. There was no time for that. I knew I'd probably surf the home break. As I drove toward it, I saw two people, from behind, running with a big dog. What's funny is that I didn't recognize them—I recognized the dog!!! It was Ria and B from the home break running with their beautiful Ridgeback. They were as surprised to see me as I was them. I mentioned my appearance at the beach at that hour was an aberration, that I was there to do a birthday surf. They went one way, I went the other.

I paddled out alone in small, but glassy surf on the new custom board. I'm not ready to surf it in a crowd. The board and I need more quality time together before we start stepping out in public. It's awfully quiet at that hour. There were people at the beach doing their morning constitutionals. There was no one else in the water when I paddled out. I got a chance to think about things, watch the dolphins and laugh at the lone seal whose little head kept popping up here and there. Then I saw someone I knew on the beach. It was Ria!! She paddled out and said, "You can't surf alone on your birthday!!!" That's one of the best birthday presents I've ever received. I couldn't believe it. I'm smiling as I relive it in my head. We hung out for a bit and then I took one in.

As if the surf session wasn't enough, I decided I'd top off my birthday with a lunchtime swim. I swam alright. I don't know why I thought I'd be able to swim the way I normally do. I felt like my shoulders were made of lead. However, I still swam. I believe you celebrate your abilities while you've got them. I wonder if I'll be able to do, at 54, the two workouts I did on Thursday at 44? Never say never.

Surf. Swim. Work. Dinner. Wine. I didn't have the strength for much else. I think what I did was enough. Happy birthday to me!