Three Days of Mediocrity

I surfed for three straight days . . . and the waves sucked for three straight days. Monday wasn't much different from Sunday. Beachbreak closeouts. That's always a lot of fun. I took the new board out though. Surprisingly enough, I got up on it twice. I think that's impressive when one considers that on Sunday I was riding a board that was two feet longer than this one. Usually, I don't make the transition to a shorter board that easily. I did get up on it and that's all I wanted. The waves didn't allow me to get a feel for the full potential of the board. I do like it. However, I need more time on it in order to determine whether I love it.

After awhile, I asked Gracefullee to trade boards with me. I've been dying to try out her new board. I thought she wanted to try mine as well. As you can see, we were out there shredding on one another's sticks. I was moving so quickly that you can't even see me in this picture!

Gracefullee is doing the home break move known as "Steel Yourself as the Closeout Closes Out on Your Head Before You Can Pop Up".


I was sore as a $@#!& today. But I went ahead and swam at lunch, thinking a swim might loosen up my tight shoulders. I thought my shoulders were tight merely from surfing. Then I realized that I'm also in pain from wrestling with the VW Bus. I finally drove it yesterday. That entailed getting it out of the garage and, even worse, getting it back in. This thing has no power steering. I won't even go into detail about the rear view mirror that won't stay put or the side view mirror that hangs there doing nothing helpful. I put all of my upper body muscles to work in that thing yesterday. Verdict? I loved every minute of it. Yeah, the thing is 39 years old. Yeah, it's got an oil leak. Yeah, it looks like hell. It's more fun than I could have imagined. After finally making it my own, I decided I'll eventually put a new engine in it. This thing can't even get out of its own way. That wouldn't be a problem in a smaller city. That's a major problem in a city with so many freeways and fast cars. I talked to the mechanic today. A new engine will also require a new transmission. I figured that. Of course, all of this will cost money I don't have and don't foresee having in the near future. Still, I'm someone who needs to be challenged. Life is boring when things are too easy. This bus is my latest challenge. I'm up to the task. I'm gonna turn it into something reliable enough to drive down to San O or San Diego on occasion. That's a promise.