12 May 2007

Feel the Power of the Tyler

For the first time in months, I actually took the Tyler out of the garage. No, I didn't take it to the beach. I've yet to wax it. But it is moving closer to the house. (The boards I use on a regular basis live in the house; the Tyler is now in the gym.) It's working its way into the rotation, I suppose. All I did today was touch the thing. In fact, I never touched the board. I only touched the board bag. I suppose that was enough. I'd hate to see how I surf when I actually make serious contact with the board.

I went to the home break expecting the worst. I really did. Before I left for the beach, I could tell the wind was up. I didn't care. I wanted to surf . . . or at least make an attempt. The three of us (me and the two Soul Brothers) took a look at it once we arrived. It certainly wasn't the sight- I wanted to see—gray skies, textured water, and less than perfect waves. But I did see one person catch a rather long ride. Even though one of the locals got out talking about how badly it sucked out there, I was undaunted. I was going out. Doing so would still be better than going home unsurfed and pissed off. The verdict? It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. There were waves. And on my second or third wave, I walked to the nose, stood there for a few seconds, and then walked back before falling off. I did a cheater five in that crap!! I was happily surprised, especially since I've not spent much time walking the board of late. But the time has come. If you're going to ride a longboard, you've got to at least try. Then you've got to at least do it successfully a little. Then you've got to do it right consistently. I think I'm at the "do it successfully a little" stage. I'm always amazed that the board will keep going while you're at the nose. In my mind, it's supposed to sink immediately. Thankfully, I told my mind to "shut up" today. I walked the board without thinking about it. I swear this happened today, after months of doing little walking, because of the magic coming off of that Tyler. What's so ironic is that I bought that board for noseriding and walking. Yet I seem to do more of those things when I'm on my Slick. Go figure.

I'm going for a DP session tomorrow in an attempt to beat the high tide and the wind. Yes, my idea of a fun Mother's Day is getting up in the dark to surf. I don't care about sleeping in—I'm a morning person. I don't want breakfast in bed—I'm not a breakfast person. What matters is that Soul Brother #2 loves me and appreciates me—he does. Oh, I've also told the men, in no uncertain terms, that I'm not cooking, fixing, heating up shit tomorrow. We won't go out to eat. We'll bring food in, hang with my mom, and get somewhat inebriated. You know what? I think I said the same thing in the blog last year! Now I'm cracking myself up. I'm Audi 5000.

2 Comments:

At 5/13/07, 6:48 AM, Anonymous surfing the goon said...

SoBe Last week... water temp 80! Feeding Frenzy!

http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/photo_bamp.cfm?id=9137&ad=1

 
At 5/14/07, 4:28 AM, Blogger Paula the Surf Mom said...

I made the Debs cook and do the diaper duty yesterday.

 

Post a Comment

<< Home