I met Greg Noll!!! Why is it that when I see a bona fide movie or TV star in person, I'm totally uninterested, but when I see someone like Greg Noll, I'm dumbstruck? As far as I'm concerned, if there are surfing gods, Greg Noll is one of them. He took quite an interest in Soul Brother #2, asking if the little man has a wetsuit (yes, by the way, he does) and telling me to let him come to surfing at his own speed (which is just the way I see it too). The old dude rocks! I couldn't afford the book, so I had him sign a Greg Noll sticker and my tide book. (I don't get paid until Friday and I don't use credit. So, I couldn't get the book . . . unless pocket lint is now an accepted currency at surf shops).
The recent rains kept me out of the water this weekend. Seeing Da Bull rivaled an epic session. I'm on a high that's going to last for awhile. Aloha.