Surf Like a Sista!

Sistas surf with grace and style. Behold the beautiful dismount!

Three days in a row! I surfed three days in a row. I don't get to do that often now that I work full-time. Three days and three different breaks. I'm not complaining. I was surprised I even got a session in today. I said nothing about surfing this morning. I stayed home, let Soul Brother #1 sleep in, and tended to Soul Brother #2. After fixing breakfast for both of them, we sat here looking at one another. Then Soul Brother #1 asked if I wanted to go to the beach. That's his way of saying they'll hang out while I surf.

The home break didn't look good. The waves were up and over. The tide wasn't helping. Normally, we'd simply turn around and go home. But I didn't feel like going home. I suggested we drive up the coast. Believe it or not, I wasn't thinking about finding a surf spot. I thought a session was out of the question. But as we passed RPB, we could see it was breaking. There were also several parking spots available. I turned around to take a look. You'll never guess what happened next? Soul Brother #1 told me to suit up. Even though I couldn't believe what I was hearing, I didn't hesistate to throw on the wetsuit and pop in the contacts. The place was packed at The Point and a little south of that. I saw a little peak with a left that kept popping up in the middle of the bay. So I paddled out to it. There were only a few people in the bay. I definitely wasn't surfing in a crowd. RPB was breaking rather nicely—not that you can tell from the picture above. I stayed in for an hour and a half. That was more than enough for my third straight day. I'm good and sore now.

I may get in another session during the week. Think good thoughts about the next swell!




This is where I should have walked to the nose. I see that in the picture. My brain still can't process this when I'm surfing. The pictures help me though.


Can you believe that crowd? I'm way over on the left popping up.