17 May 2005


Okay, I've decided that Whiffleboy is my doppelganger (and vice versa). I'm telling you—we were twins in a previous life. I didn't go to Topanga. I went to Sunset and I swear we had the same session. My nemesis was on a funboard rather than a shortboard. But, as with Whiff, the guy managed to cut me off. I was up and riding when all of a sudden I see the nose of a board coming toward my right ankle. Since I'm a goofy foot surfer, I have to ride Sunset with my back to 99% of the waves, thus I don't see people as quickly as I would were I going frontside. Anyway, I see this board coming at my ankle. This guy had dropped into my wave, not 10 feet in front of me, not 20 feet in front of me, but about one foot in front of me. I was not amused. He had very little control of his board so I had no choice but to turn and head straight for the beach. I heard him yell "Sorry" as I was going away from him. Yeah, yeah. I wasn't fighting mad or anything, but I was irritated. This guy flailed all over the place so he managed to get in my way more than once. I don't even know why I was irritated. The waves weren't even good today. They rolled through every once in awhile. I got one good long ride, one medium ride (that was probably ruined by my cross-stepping), and then the ride that would have been a long one had I not been cut off. All of the other waves were . . . just waves. I don't know. I'm feeling a bit impatient these days about my surfing. I realize that I'm past that point in the learning curve where you make improvements by leaps and bounds. I can actually surf now, but I don't seem to do be doing anything noteworthy. I feel as if I'm stuck in surfing purgatory.

Things of note from today's session:
1. My "What the F@!k?" Moment

So I'm paddling back toward Dos Baños when I come up behind another guy who's paddling back. His form is pretty frightening. He's paddling with his legs apart. His feet are dragging in the water. But that's not important. What was so frightening was that I was looking at this guy's nether regions because his wetsuit had split in the crotch area. That sight was not a pretty one. I mean, first, wasn't he cold? He couldn't have been getting any warmth down there. Second, shouldn't you realize or care that a wetsut that's falling apart in that area is going to give everyone an unwanted peep show? What was he thinking? Crustyripper came up with a way to rate one's sessions. His grading system includes points for a cute guy in trunks or a cute girl in a bikini. I want to know how many negative points there are for what I saw today. It definitely took points away from my session.

2. Now My Car is a Kook Magnet Too

Okay, "kook magnet" is term that Alan_M coined. I think he uses the term for what happens while in the water. Well, it happened to my car out of the water!!! Now, look, people! If the break is uncrowded and the parking is ample, there is no need for you to park right at the rear bumper of my surf mobile. See, if I see a station wagon, hatchback, or SUV at a break, I try not to park too close to the rear of them. One can and should assume that the people in those vehicles will put their boards in the car. Yes, I have racks. I don't use the racks when no one else in the car. My board rides inside with me . . . where it's safe!! Well, I got out of the water today to find that the car behind mine was right at my rear bumper. What is that about? Eventually, I had to move my car in order to get my board in (and not ding it on the car behind me). Think, people, think!!! Again, it wasn't crowded. So what is up with parking like that?

On a more important note, I have mentioned to my husband that "I saw a board". He was a bit taken aback that I want to get yet another one. Of course, I wasn't asking for permission; I was simply telegraphing my punch. I just don't have the patience or the ability to hide or stretch the truth about another board. In other words, I've let it be known that there will soon be a new addition to the family. After we talked about it, he said, "You probably already have it." Well . . . not really. It's been made. It's got my name on it. (No, I didn't say it was a custom board.) However, I have yet to pick it up. So, technically, I don't have the board yet, right?


At 5/17/05, 8:26 PM, Anonymous Daddio said...

Oh your'e bad! But at least your not hiding it, enjoy can't wait to see the pics

At 5/17/05, 9:55 PM, Blogger Alan_M said...

I think the Kook Magnet is a malignant virus that's spreading. Or it's a curse that's put upon those who reads its name. I'm sorry I ever mentioned it, it's all my fault. Go pick up that new board, it'll make you happy. Trust me. Do it now.

At 5/18/05, 8:27 AM, Blogger RuggerJay said...

Regarding the board - as the wise man once said, "the truth often depends on our point of view."

Don't let the kooks get you down. And remember - everyone's a "kook" at some point. If I see someone who's obviously a beginner doing dumb things, I'll nicely offer up some advice.

At 5/18/05, 11:08 AM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

Just don't be surprised when your husband one day comes to you and says "I've found this car..."


At 5/18/05, 12:38 PM, Blogger gracefullee said...

I'm having some stalling in my surfing, too. Much sigh indeed.

Your "what the f^$@?!" moment would have cheered me up. Did you tell him? Did anybody tell him? He was wearing a swimsuit on underneath his wetsuit, right? Was it bright red?

At 5/18/05, 3:15 PM, Blogger crustyripper said...

I think Sister's point was that the guy was NOT wearing trunks under the wetsuit. I'm not going to recalibrate the Crustometer for that parameter but if it ever happens to me it will take a whole lot of good waves the rest of the session to bring it back into postive numbers!

At 5/18/05, 4:44 PM, Anonymous ria said...

I'd join in with everyone...your "what the #$@# moment" made me laugh out loud. Like gracefullee I had the same questions...but then realized I didn't want to know the answer for fear of the image coming back to me!

My surfing has stalled too..I find myself comfortable with waist to chest high waves (for me that's about 3-4 ft) and anything bigger I freeze. Like G. said I have to commit and go over the falls...

At 5/18/05, 10:03 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Whiff, my husband can't say much. He met me up at the beach the other day and he was on his motorcycle. One of the guys in our crew came over to gawk at the bike (which wasn't cheap). After my husband left, Greg said, "He can't say anything about your surfboards. I know that bike was expensive. How much are the tune-ups? About $500 a pop, right? And that jacket cost a lot too, didn't it?"
My only indulgences are my boards. Once their paid for, I'm done. But that bike is a gift that just keeps on giving—debt.


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