07 May 2005

And What Did You Do Today?

I don't know about the rest of you, but I surfed. My home break had some waves that were good enough. Once again, I have nothing of note to discuss in terms of memorable waves. I did come to the realization that I can make a wicked drop going frontside, but not going backside. I think that's probably normal. It's hard to make a steep drop when you can't see the wave (or drag your hand). I'll have to work on that, although I'm not sure it's all that easy on a longboard. I think it's something I'll have to learn to do on my shorter board.

I had fun today. Although my break is known primarily for the number of women who surf there, we are periodically invaded by the crew from the nearby surf shop. Those guys rip. And when they descend on our break, they take over. Well, here I was in the midst of all of this testosterone . . . on shortboards. Thankfully, some of the guys from our crew were in the water too so I didn't feel too out of place. Anyway, I get in and I'm basically surrounded by the shortboarders from this shop. I didn't know any of these guys and sometimes I get intimidated. So, I went for my first wave only to have the wave mush away, magically disappearing like a stain treated with Oxi Clean. I knew all of those guys had been watching me. So when I turned around to paddle back out, I looked toward them and said, "Damn longboard!!!" I guess you had to be there. But it made all of us laugh. From then on, we started having fun together. That's the thing I love about surfing. Most of the people you meet are out there to have fun. I caught my share of waves and so did they. Now, today was a little different than normal for me in that I used to hate it when the guys would start yelling at me to get the wave coming right at me. Too much pressure! Peformance anxiety! Today, there was more of that yelling. It was a nice wave and I was the only one positioned to take it. But instead of choking, I took it. I suppose my confidence in the water has improved. Now, if you say it's mine, I go . . . usually. Everyone send me good karma for Monday. I want to do a dawn patrol session at Sunset. I don't usually surf on Mondays (since I have to be at work at 11:30 and drop the child off at daycare at 8:30). But my husband is off this week. And since a SW swell is coming, Sunset will be the place to be. The swell will start dying off on Tuesday. So Monday it is. Send me all of the positive surf karma you can muster. I promise to pay you all back with positive karma when you need it!

4 Comments:

At 5/7/05, 10:37 PM, Blogger Alan_M said...

Good karma on the way! C'mon South swell!

 
At 5/8/05, 12:21 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

See ya there!

 
At 5/8/05, 5:58 PM, Blogger puttzle said...

Yeah, Monday! Look M., feel good when people yell at you to go, pressure smessure. That shows a good deal of camaderie in the line-up, and that's a good thing. Concentrate on the wave and being in tune with the ride, not what anyone else might think if you fall because then you probably will. Carry on!

 
At 5/9/05, 5:23 PM, Blogger crustyripper said...

What did I do today (Sat.)? I dug 7 or 8 post holes in clay and sand soil the manual way, then set two posts in concrete. Honey has been pushing me to start the project and I said: "Hey, there's your Mother's Day present right out there!" Think I got away with it?

 

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