San O, Why Do You Hate Me So?

Look at this picture! That little thing in the circle is a surfer. Since when is San O supposed to look like El Porto? Frankly, I was not amused. I did not have fun. And I swear to you that when the biggest wave I've ever seen in my life (from the water) loomed on the horizon, I saw Laird Hamilton being towed into it. Or at least that's what was going through my head in what seemed to be a true moment of clarity.

And what is up with all of those people speeding? I mean, really! No wonder Puttzle started a blog devoted just to people who speed at San O. If you've never been to San O, you won't understand how truly dangerous these people are to everyone else in the lot. I saw people tearing through the lot at speeds that were frightening. Even more interesting is watching the surfers scream at them to slow it down. Good for you, Puttzle, for putting their asses on the Web. Perhaps that will shame them into driving like they have some sense.

San O kicked my ass yet again. I won't blame the place though. It started out as one of those days when you figuratively get up on the wrong side of the bed. Things weren't clicking for me today both in the water and out of the water. Frankly, I'm just glad to have made it out alive. I mentally shut down once I'd been out in the water awhile. I wouldn't paddle for anything, but all I wanted was to be out of the water. So I was stuck out there with me, myself, and a lot of negativity. My mind was playing tricks on me. It wasn't a good space to be in, especially in conditions that were somewhat challenging (although not really life-threatening). I spent the session paddling to get past the outside waves. I got really tired of that. Finally, as I mentioned above, a big, big set wave loomed. We'd already had about two set waves before that one and I'd barely made it past them. I could see I'd never get past this behemoth. That's when I snapped out of my funk because I sensed that this wave had the potential to do some damage. I realized it would break before it reached me. "Fine. Whatever. I'm through with this shit. I'm taking this thing in." I held onto my board for all it was worth and rode the whitewater in on my belly. I felt like I'd been shot out of a cannon! That wave must have packed a punch when it broke. I'm glad I had the presence of mind to make the only use I could make of it. There's no way I would have paddled for something like that. Don't worry, you'll see a picture of Laird towing into it on Surfline tomorrow.