26 April 2005

Not Epic, But Good Enough

I finally got back in the water. I was determined to surf somewhere today, especially since we're making another run to San O on Friday. I always have this fear that if I stay out of the water too long, I'll forget everything. It's an honest to god fear of mine. It makes no sense, I know.

My original destination was Malibu. I'd seen on Pacific Waverider that the 'Bu was "fair" this morning. That was a better score than any other local break got. I stopped at my break on the way to Malibu. It was lightly closed out. I say lightly because it didn't look like you'd break your neck going for anything. Still, I didn't see many shoulders either. I wasn't in the mood for that today. I haven't been too happy with my break of late. The energy there has been, shall we say, strange. So, I headed up to Malibu. I have but one thing to say: why did I bother? There were quite a few people there. The waves there looked pretty damn good to me. I didn't spend much time deciding what to do though. I really stayed long enough to watch a couple of waves. After seeing at least three people within five feet of one another share each wave, I got back in the car. Yes, the waves looked inviting. They really did. But once I saw the crowd, I was through. I decided to give Sunset a try just for the hell of it. As it turns out, it wasn't big so there were very few people there. To my surprise, the set waves had some shape and some size. It was definely worth a paddle out for someone who wanted some quiet time with the waves. As usual, I started out alone and then ended up surrounded by the three other people in the bay. One of my friends claims, as I've said before, that I actually do have a magnetic personality that draws people to me. Interesting. I actually got in because I thought I could have some time alone with myself. Silly me for thinking that! It was a decent session. I felt good, caught the first wave I paddled for, and had fun. The one interesting thing that happened was one of the guys out there was certain he'd seen a shark so he was warning the few of us who were in the bay. Well, the guy on the shortboard immediately got out, as did the woman who was still a newbie. I wasn't getting out. Period. I figured if I saw something suspicious, then I'd get out, but not before. About 20 minutes later, the dolphins put on a show for us. This is the second time in a week that I've felt like I was at SeaWorld. After seeing their antics, the guy who'd seen what he thought was a shark said maybe he'd seen a dolphin after all. I noticed the guy with the shortboard standing on PCH watching the water, so I signaled to him to come back in. Then I paddled away from my little group just to have some room to surf. I caught two more waves and went in.

Question of the day: Do black people surf?
Answer: Yes, we do!


At 4/27/05, 8:17 AM, Blogger Alan_M said...

Aah, you posess the dreaded kook magnet, too! I had a not good enough session yesterday, and only have a softball size egg on my shin from my board knocking the hell out of it trying to muscle through a mushy closeout. I'm glad you got some decent water time! Isn't it sad that the Uber quality breaks such as Malibu are completely ruined by overcrowding? I only go out at breaks like that when it's really big, which cuts down on the crowd. Otherwise, it takes all the fun out of it, no mater how good the wave, don't you think?

At 4/27/05, 8:50 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Yeah, the crowd thing is not for me. I'm generally a loner by nature anyway. I like to sit quietly by myself and say nothing. I can do that for hours (or could before I had a child). So while I can handle a somewhat crowded break, I cannot handle an over-crowded break. Too many people. Too much of a weird vibe, which does take all of the fun out of it.

At 4/27/05, 1:58 PM, Blogger crustyripper said...

Nice glassy wave. You never mentioned you were a goofyfoot.


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