Too Tired

Well, I thought about going to the beach. Thinking about it was the best I could do at this point. I'm tired. Every day, I can be heard to ask, "Isn't the semester over yet?" We still have about six weeks to go. Damn!!! Anyway, I couldn't muster the energy to head out to the beach. The surf reports didn't sound promising. It looks like rain is on the way and I thought it seemed a bit breezy. When I'm this tired and the conditions are that questionable, why bother? So, my child was given a leisurely push to daycare this morning. Often, if a swell is in, I'll start running while pushing him to daycare. Like so many of us, I get so excited about the swell that it's as if I can't move fast enough. I want to be at the beach already. It's an interesting sight: me, the child (with his SpongeBob backpack strapped to the handles of the stroller), and the dog running down the street. We're well-known throughout the neighborhood. As is typical in L.A., you don't see many people walking around here. That's a shame. I want my little one to know that being on foot is often preferable to being in the car. The daycare is only about a mile away. There really is no reason to drive him there. So, I don't do it anymore. I used to pack up the car with my surf stuff and then drop him off. Now I pack up the car, walk him and the dog there, practically run home with the dog, and then head to the water.

I think I'm still celebrating Tuesday's session too. I have a habit of taking a few days off after a great surf session. I take the time to enjoy the session since you never know if the next session will be one that sends you home pissed off. Tuesday was wonderful. It was the first time I felt at one with my board. I used to feel that way on my bike and had wondered if I'd ever experience that on a surfboard. Well, it finally happened. The board went wherever I asked it to go. I remember doing a lot of turning and carving. The latter is something I'd been working on rather unsuccessfully. But it all came together on Tuesday. So, I'll spend another day with Tuesday's surfer's high (yes, it's still with me) and try to catch something tomorrow if the swell actually does materialize.