12 May 2005

Back to the Second Shift

Now, that's more like it! No, it wasn't a stellar session or anything like that. However, the sun was out. The water was relatively warm. And I caught quite a few waves. The good thing is that there was almost no one out. The bad thing is, once again, that I couldn't get away to surf alone. Everybody wanted to be where I was. Sometimes, I don't want to talk to anyone while I'm surfing. That's usually not the case, but when there are only a few people in the water I expect to have some time to myself. But that never happens! Ever!

I'm also in a funk. This one has nothing to do with surfing. What I find truly distressing is that surfing is not helping me work through the "stuff" I'm dealing with out of the water. The bullshit in my real life (as opposed to my surf life) is now hurting my surfing. Something's gotta give or at least I'd like to think that's the case. Today's session was fine. The waves were tiny at first. Later, they got larger and proceeded to close out. Nevertheless, I got my share of rides. But it didn't make me happy. I got in the water mad and I left the water mad. If this keeps up, I will stop surfing for awhile. I'd rather take the anger out on my bike.

6 Comments:

At 5/12/05, 7:36 PM, Blogger Pamela said...

Hey Surf Sister-

I love the surf stories! Good wishes with the dawn patrol- I haven't mastered it yet, either.

:)

PJ

 
At 5/12/05, 8:26 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

Break that 7'0 out if you're gonna surf mad. It'll be way easier to let out some anger on it than a cruisie longboard.

Well...maybe not, but, break out that 7'0 anyways!!

 
At 5/12/05, 9:57 PM, Blogger Alan_M said...

Seems the karma circle has broken, and you've gotten a case of the dreaded kook magnet! Try as much as possible to apply the Dao, reverse the polarity of the kook magnet, and be the ball Danny, be the ball. Sorry, I'm insane, I know.... maybe this will lighten you're mood, it sure as hell made me laugh... http://alexstram.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=moshzilla

 
At 5/13/05, 9:14 AM, Blogger puttzle said...

Never, I repeat, Never, let the other stuff in your life affect your time in the water. Learn to use it as your release, become one with the wave, grasshopper. As you know, surfing is a very special thing, nothing like it on the planet. It has many uses for the soul, utilize it. My best to you.

 
At 5/13/05, 10:25 AM, Blogger gracefullee said...

Sorry you didn't like your dawn patrol at Sunset (it does tend to be crowded there). You should try dawn patrol at OP, though it's been getting crowded there early, too. I remember when it used to just be me, Frank, and the guys he coaches. Now there are a crop of newbies who are truly dedicated to the surf early in the morning, so I can't be bitter about them invading my calm in dawn patrol. I remember when I was there, too, taking every wave on the chin.

I haven't been out in a week and I don't really miss it. I think I'm waiting for some really great waves to come my way again.

 
At 5/15/05, 9:06 PM, Blogger crustyripper said...

Moshzilla Rocks! That is almost as good as Eggagog. SS - My theory is that the bigger the waves then the greater the ability of the surf session to wash away life's bullshit. Little waves on a crowded day doesn't help, and can even make your mood worse! What always works for me is a good run. No one to bother me with their blather and lots of sweat and endorphins!

 

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