13 February 2008

Three Days Straight

No leash. No problems. I don't know that I've been this comfortable and this willing to go leashless in the past. The waves today were deceiving. CYT thought she was looking at something serious and couldn't believe I was going in without a leash. I wasn't sure what we were looking at, but I knew yesterday saw me start out on a 7'3" and then run back to the car for a longboard. With this swell, spots shut down quickly. I was willing to take my chances on a bigger board to which I was not tethered. I suppose I made the right choice. (The better choice would have been to forego a session and hit the pool instead.) I caught waves and only swam once today. I didn't lose the board at all yesterday. My board control and wave judgment are improving. I'm finding that my thought processes are faster now that I've given up on the leash. I can't just haphazardly go for a wave anymore, knowing that if I don't make it my board is right there. Now I give waves serious thought. I'm always reminding myself that the board will be long gone if I'm not attentive. And, as Christian commented, going leashless forces you to end a ride with some grace. (I can't say I do it with style at this point.) Of course, once summer returns and the lineups are overly crowded, I'll probably go back to the leash. There will be too many people in the water. It's easy to control your board when it's just you and the wave. It gets difficult when other people are running into you and knocking you off your board.


At 2/14/08, 1:41 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

You were ripping!

At 2/14/08, 2:11 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

There was nothing to rip. The waves sucked all three days. But the sunshine was worth it.

At 2/14/08, 3:00 PM, Blogger gracefullee said...

Eh, keep the leash off in the summer months. Just take aim!

At 2/15/08, 2:12 PM, Blogger Christian said...

I average one swim every two session, too. Usually for dumb things. FREX: I was sitting at County Line, watching a set wave roll in. I'm thinking, "Oh, I'll be fine. It will roll right under me." Nope. Off my board I went. The board took a lucky bounce, though, and I didn't have too swim so far, Whew!

I hear you on wave selection. You get kind of picky when a closeout might result in a swim!

At 2/15/08, 2:19 PM, Blogger asmith said...

Soon you will feel "weird" when you wear a leash. I pretty much only wear leashes when there are rocks or too many people around. I always feel so clumsy with a leash on. The real advantage to not wearing a leash- more time to bodysurf!


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