Here's What You Don't Say to a Local

If I recall correctly, it was something to the effect of "I'm going to go home and get my gun and shoot you." That was stupid on so many levels. I wasn't in the water when the beef began, but I was there when it almost escalated into a true beat down. The guy to whom those words were uttered got out of the water for a bit to talk to two of his friends. I overheard him telling them about the incident. Before I knew it, he'd pointed out the guy that mouthed off and the two friends were yelling threats. There were only two reasons why it didn't get ugly. The first is because the local to whom the initial threat was made didn't seem intent on fighting about it. He was just venting. The other reason was that the guys being yelled at were smart enough to keep their mouths shut and scurry off.

The session was nothing special. Although there was swell in the water, the tide screwed things up a bit. I opted for the longboard since the waves that didn't jack up tended to back off. I think I actually got covered up on one wave, but like Gracefullee, I had my eyes closed. I didn't get to see what was happening. I merely remember wondering why I was still crouched on the board rather than spinning wildly in the water. I wanted to get closer to the best takeoff spot today, but after seeing all of the excitement before the session, I knew the natives were restless and I wanted none of that. When the locals are angry, you give them their space. When they're in a good mood, you join the lineup, wait for them to acknowledge you and take your turn. I could tell today was not a day for that.

After the session, CYT and I ran into a surfer we know from a couple of other breaks. He was railing about the locals at L.A.'s most famous three pointed break. From what I could gather, they dislike him because he drops in on them . . . even though they feel it's their right to drop in on everyone else, especially those who don't walk the board.

You know what? Enough already. If it's like this during the winter, what is the summer going to bring?