Best Noseride Ever . . .

until the friend who was paddling back out crossed my path. Okay, I can easily steer a board from the tail. The nose? Not so much.

I usually find it difficult to successfully make it to the nose while going backside. I always want to put my weight on my toes rather than on my heels. Today was different. I felt the board lock in and calmly walked up to the tip. (Usually I run to the tip and then have to either slam on the brakes—oh, what a sight that is!—or fall off the front of the board.) On this wave, once I got to the nose I could feel that the board was holding. I was prepared to ride it out. Well, I didn't get the chance to see how this wave played out. My friend slowed down her paddle back out right in front of me. Not a good idea. Her: deer in the headlights look. Me: hunter in the headlights look. Somehow I managed to lean into the nose enough to make the board turn and barely miss her. Of course, that sent me straight into the water. But better that than her having that run down feeling.

What the hell is up with this wind? If locks weren't blowing into my face, the spray was. I pulled out of a couple of waves just because I couldn't see. The locks are almost long enough for a ponytail now. The problem is that the locks in the front. They're still too short to do anything but fall over my eyes. I've got probably another year before I can pull those bad boys out of the way.

I've surfed four out of the last five days. I don't have noodle arms, but I did eat two big meals today. That never ever happens. My body is close to running on empty now. I'm glad I can't surf tomorrow. I'll still workout though. Perhaps I can get out on Sunday (if I get a surf pass from the spouse).