03 November 2007

Damn You, Longboard Wave Hogs!!!

Oh, how one's perspective changes upon switching to a shorter board. By the time I got out of the water, I was sick to death of longboards. Can you believe that? This from the woman who's got nothin' but love for longboards.

This was just a weird session. It started out with me getting to the spot, only to get a call from my friends saying they'd left their parking pass in someone else's car. So I drove over to them, only to have one of them say I could just drive to the end of the lot and they'd walk over to get my pass. I drove back into the break, back to their vicinity to hand off my pass and then met them at the other end of the break. Since this is not a small beach, this rather involved parking pass situation involved a lot of driving for me.

Once we were situated, I wasn't sure which board to surf. It's basically a longboard break. I brought the log, but only intended to surf it if I saw ankle high waves. (My main board, the board I normally surf here, was still in the shop.) The set waves appeared to be somewhat peaky. I opted for my shorter board. There were waves to snag on that board. However, the place was more crowded than I'd seen it in awhile and 99% of the people in the water were on longboards. That left me, essentially, shit out of luck. One guy in particular took just about every wave there was. I pulled out of waves at times because he was already on them. Had I been on my longboard, I would have battled with him. On the shorter board, there was nothing I could do. I was only in for about an hour. I think I got three or four rides, none of which was good. It was a frustrating session, to say the least. Still, I stayed true to the shorter board. Every session with that board brings me closer to getting that board dialed in.


At 8/6/14, 5:46 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Good on you! Its worth it.


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