Hug Your Local Shaper
I was ready to do just that after today's session at the pier. That shorter board is simply perfect. I know I've said it before. I'm going to say it again: it's exactly what I wanted. Exactly. The shaper asked the right questions and he listened to the answers. He understood what I wanted. Even better, he also understood what I needed.
Remember, my sessions earlier in the week were on my longboard. In the past, I struggled when I tried to switch between a longboard and something shorter after a few days on the longboard. I went into today's session believing that would be the case today. Early on, I wasn't catching shit. The tide was marching up to six feet plus. It was all I could do not to go back to the car to get my longboard. But I was at a beach break. I said this winter would be spent on the shorter board unless the waves were tiny. The waves today weren't small at all. And they were walled up. The problem, more than anything else, was that they were mushy. I didn't quite know what to do with those conditions on a shorter board. So, I sat and watched CYT catch waves on her 8'0", thinking how much I hate sessions where I only catch one or two waves.
This, as it turns out, was not one of those sessions. Once I got my first wave, it was on. Period. I'm not even sure what happened. See, I went shorter because there are waves I want to catch but am afraid to even paddle for on a longboard. Those waves are typically walls that show just a bit of shoulder. I don't enjoy such waves. Let me take that back, I didn't used to enjoy such waves. Today, I was dropping into the walls, finding the shoulders and actually riding. I couldn't believe it. On a longboard, I'm terrified of waves like those. On a shorter board, your perspective is different. You need a bigger wave. You pray for a bigger wave. You welcome a bigger wave. I was disappointed every time a longboard wave rolled through. I wanted something with some height, speed and push. In the end, my session was great. Everything came together today. I popped up smoothly and onto the perfect spot on the board. The waves showed some shape . . . and I was at a beach break! I was even able to work a few little sad turns during the rides.
I love this board. I love my shaper.
Mark Brog
Soul Performance Surfboards
2215 1/2 Artesia Blvd.
Redondo Beach (310) 370-1428
posted by Surfsister @ 13:54
10 comments
10 Comments:
Ahh that is just rad! Shortboards are fun!
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) !!!!!!
Good on ya! Boy, that is some testimonial. Your next shaper sure has a lot to live up to.
"On a shorter board, your perspective is different. You need a bigger wave. You pray for a bigger wave. You welcome a bigger wave. I was disappointed every time a longboard wave rolled through. I wanted something with some height, speed and push."
So true. Your joy was palpable. Congrats!
Sweet. :-)
I am looking forward to a transition board as well sis.... although last night I was ruling my spot on the big stick :)
surf on Sis
Glad you had such a great session. Sounds like you're getting it dialed in. One of the best thing about shortboarding is when you get a good wave with a real shoulder or face, then you will feel what it's like to do a true cutback to stay in the critical section, then back out on the face for more turns. It's great to be able to race down the line and make fast sections you can't make on a longboard, but (for me, anyhow), it's even more glorious to execute critical turns on a wave with a good face. Sunset on a bigger winter day....you will love it.
Cutbacks? Critical turns? We're talking about me, people. Me on a shorter board. I don't think you can call this thing a shortboard. But I'm glad everyone believes I can do these wonderful things . . . eventually.
If you're interested in a great long board for chest to head high waves. Tyler's Zeke is a great board in larger waves.
Anon, I've got a Tyler 301. Can't afford another Tyler. I did see a Herbie Fletcher longboard that intrigued me. I'm beginning to look ahead to the day when I do actually break the Slick. Since the shaper is now in Hawaii, I realize I need to start looking for a back-up.
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