Hug Your Local Shaper
I was ready to do just that after today's session at the pier. That shorter board is simply perfect. I know I've said it before. I'm going to say it again: it's exactly what I wanted. Exactly. The shaper asked the right questions and he listened to the answers. He understood what I wanted. Even better, he also understood what I needed.
Remember, my sessions earlier in the week were on my longboard. In the past, I struggled when I tried to switch between a longboard and something shorter after a few days on the longboard. I went into today's session believing that would be the case today. Early on, I wasn't catching shit. The tide was marching up to six feet plus. It was all I could do not to go back to the car to get my longboard. But I was at a beach break. I said this winter would be spent on the shorter board unless the waves were tiny. The waves today weren't small at all. And they were walled up. The problem, more than anything else, was that they were mushy. I didn't quite know what to do with those conditions on a shorter board. So, I sat and watched CYT catch waves on her 8'0", thinking how much I hate sessions where I only catch one or two waves.
This, as it turns out, was not one of those sessions. Once I got my first wave, it was on. Period. I'm not even sure what happened. See, I went shorter because there are waves I want to catch but am afraid to even paddle for on a longboard. Those waves are typically walls that show just a bit of shoulder. I don't enjoy such waves. Let me take that back, I didn't used to enjoy such waves. Today, I was dropping into the walls, finding the shoulders and actually riding. I couldn't believe it. On a longboard, I'm terrified of waves like those. On a shorter board, your perspective is different. You need a bigger wave. You pray for a bigger wave. You welcome a bigger wave. I was disappointed every time a longboard wave rolled through. I wanted something with some height, speed and push. In the end, my session was great. Everything came together today. I popped up smoothly and onto the perfect spot on the board. The waves showed some shape . . . and I was at a beach break! I was even able to work a few little sad turns during the rides.
I love this board. I love my shaper.
Soul Performance Surfboards
2215 1/2 Artesia Blvd.
Redondo Beach (310) 370-1428