Momma Said There'd Be Days Like This
First, the freeway came to a dead stop at 6:45 a.m. Dead stop. One lane open, all other lanes closed for construction. That was the first bad sign. Once we got into the parking lot at the spot, we noticed the regulars watching, watching instead of suiting up. Then we went to look at the waves. Oh my, this won't be pretty. We decided to try. We came close on three separate occasions. Not close to catching anything. I mean close to even making it out to the line-up. It just wasn't meant to be. Three strikes and you're out. Third time was not a charm. We called it quits. Finally, on the drive back home, the freeway came to a dead stop again. This time it was a car accident involving at least six cars.
The good thing about today's session was the fact that for the first time since I've been surfing, I wasn't scared in the face of sizable waves. Milk, it does a body good? No. Swimming does a body and mind good. I knew I could swim out of any predicament I might get into. This is not to say I didn't respect the waves. I will always respect the ocean. Today I simply knew I was capable enough to keep myself out of trouble in the water. I also didn't overtax myself. That's how you get into trouble. I merely got out there and made some decent attempts. That's good enough for me. It was better to save the energy for another day, especially since the wind was howling and the waves were somewhat closed out. The waves weren't necessarily worth the beating I would have taken to get to the outside.
I'll try again tomorrow at a different spot.