Famous Last Words

"I'm not surfing tomorrow!" I was adamant. There was no way I could surf after that three hour session . . . or so I thought. My shoulders were full of lactic acid when I got up this morning. As usual, I put on a swimsuit, thinking I might hit the pool later if I felt up to it. As far as I was concerned, I wasn't surfing. I was not surfing. No surfing for me today. Nope, not gonna happen.

But then I started thinking about how happy yesterday's session made me. I thought perhaps there was a little left in the tank for an hour in the water. Then, I talked myself out of it. I did some work. I put my swim bag in the car. I considered taking a rest day and doing nothing athletic. What to do, what to do? I know. I'll look at the cam. It's high tide. There won't be anything coming through, but I'll just check anyway. Why did I do that? I saw a few lines and it was all over!!! I couldn't get stuff into the car fast enough. I had it all planned. I'd hit the spot ASAP. Since the tide was up, the waves would be few and far between. That would keep me from wearing myself out and I'd get there before the rest of L.A. got there. I'd only stay in for an hour and then be done with it.

The lulls were rather long. But the big ones were worth the wait. Tell me how it is I stayed in for another almost three hour session? I'm not even sure how I made the paddle out. I was so sore from yesterday that I was having trouble putting on my wetsuit. Once I hit the water, I was feeling little pain. Yes, it was good for the second day in a row. Yesterday was the best I've seen this place in a long time. Today wasn't as consistent, but it was still quite good. It probably got better closer to low tide. I managed to grab some good ones without fighting the crowd. That's why I went early. A few of us sat way outside to wait for the bigger ones. Believe it or not, surfing etiquette was followed. We traded waves, cheered for each other, and kept smiling.


I really need to take a day off. Today was supposed to be that day. But how could I pass up this?