October 22 (in Pictures)
Driving up PCH, you could see the smoke in the hills above Malibu. From the water, the sight was frightening. Big plumes of smoke were quickly filling the air. You just knew that the fire was uncontrolled.
The waves at the spot I chose were decent. I brought two boards, but opted for the longboard since it's a rather slow point break wave. What I had envisioned as a one and a half hour session turned into an almost three hour session. I could barely peel myself out of that wetsuit when all was said and done. We ate dinner about 30 minutes ago. I feel like I could eat yet another dinner. I left it (i.e., my energy) all out there in the Pacific.
Some waves went unridden. What a shame!
The view up through the sunroof. Check those sexy bumps!!
Wildfires continue to burn everything!! Even though I was born and raised in So Cal, I've never gotten used to the reality of wildfires.
Don't pray for surf! Pray for rain!!