So Much Things To Say
No, I've not lost my command of the English language. The title of this post is the title of a Bob Marley song. It's the first thing that came to mind when I sat down to write.
First, the reality show discussion was merely that. We discussed our lives with respect to surfing. The woman asking the questions knew nothing about surfing and was more than a little disappointed when she found out that the black surfers at the table rarely saw one another in the water. In fact, we all agreed that we don't see many other black folks in the water on a regular basis. The cool thing about this little get together was hearing everyone's story. It's not like we're all good friends or anything. I see most of these people a few times a year, if that. I don't know any of them well. I enjoyed hearing about what brought the others to surfing. Will the reality show happen? I don't really care. I didn't go there hoping to become a reality star. I went out of curiosity.
Second, my comfort level on the shorter board increases with each session. It's too bad I've yet to get this board into a good wave. Now that I think about it, I've only ever taken the board out to the home break. That place rarely rises to the level of "good". I think we all still surf there because of its convenience and mellow vibe. I don't expect to see anyone but the locals/regulars when I surf there. So wasn't I surprised to see Jeffery standing before me in the parking lot as I got ready for the session. "What are you doing here?!?" I think I was yelling at him. That's how surprised I was to see him, the man who prefers El Porto and Malibu. Convenience had brought him there too. He was, in fact, getting out of the water, but went back in to surf with me a bit. There was no shape to the waves. I spent more time catching up with Jeff than I did surfing. I did catch a few though. In the midst of the session, I had a slight epiphany. I finally realized that the best place for me to position myself on the board while I'm paddling results in my feet still being halfway on the board. In the past, my feet were hanging off the back of the board. But with even a little of my feet on the board, I was able to tweak my pop-up and use my toes to launch myself . . . which is just what I do on the longboard. Eureka!!!
Third, Bonzers are cool!