15 September 2007

Not Worth Writing Home About

This will be quick since there's not much to say. Back in the O.C. Expected some swell in the water. Found none. Caught a few waves. Then the place went flat. Not just a little flat. Flat flat flat (at least where I was hanging out). Can live with those conditions when it's warm. But it wasn't. Warm, that is. My friend and I wore springsuits. Guy in the parking lot told friend (who is male) he'd be a soprano when he came out. That guy was right. Water was damn cold. Spent most of the session shivering. Feet weren't pleased. Rode the Slick. Transitioning down to my 7'. Stupid move. Needed a log for today's conditions. Oh well. At least I got wet.


At 9/17/07, 10:02 AM, Blogger clayfin said...

put away the log till summer, you need to train.


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