Get In Early, Get Out Early

I was there, lined up at the gate with everyone else, at 6 a.m. By 6:30, I was in the water. By 8, I was on the sand heading toward the car. It would seem that I missed most of the serious crowd. There were still too many people in the water for my comfort. I let some waves go when I saw that I couldn't take them without mowing a few people over.

This was the first time I ventured to this break alone. I feel comfortable there now. In fact, the regulars now acknowledge me as I walk by them to check the surf. That's cool. I'm not trying to be in with the "in crowd" or anything. I merely want people to give me the respect that I give them.

No surfing tomorrow. Soul Brother #1 politely pointed out that since he knows I want to surf on Monday morning, he's got dibs on Sunday morning (for a motorcycle ride). That's fair. I don't like it, but that doesn't change the fact that it's still fair.

I did nothing spectacular or noteworthy today. I caught a bunch of waves when I first paddled out. Then, as the lineup thickened, I grew more hesitant. I did manage to walk once. I got to the nose, panicked, walked backwards and fell of the back of the board headfirst, feet flying up above me. I only mention that wave because it shows that I'm still intent on walking the board every time I surf (at least until I switch over to my smaller board for the winter).