11 August 2007

Walk the Walk

The reports all suggested that the waves here would be less than satisfactory this weekend. So I took a chance and left the county. (Remember, L.A. County is one of the largest counties in the country.) Once again, I ventured behind the Orange Curtain to surf with friends from work. I lucked out; the session made the drive worthwhile. Small waves with shoulders. Dolphins everywhere you looked. Space to turn around and ride actual shoulders.

Today's session was all about walking. I think half of my rides involved a trip to the nose. I'm back, once again, to making myself walk. That's what a longboard is for. I'm not going to get good at it if I never do it. In fact, I may never do it well. All I want is to do it successfully. Can't do that without practicing until you've got it down. Today I did a lot of the following: paddle, pop up, bottom turn, quick ride/stall, walk to the nose. After walking to the nose I'd end up (1) falling off, (2) getting settled in only to have the wave die, or (3) walking back only to lose my balance and then fall off. I know that the repetition is what makes you improve. I'm willing to fall off as much as necessary in order to get comfortable with walking that board. Watch out, world! I'm on a mission!


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