06 September 2007


I know I once wrote a post explaining why I'm not a one board woman. I said I just wasn't capable of being true to one board. Well, that's no longer the case. This summer's waves were so small that I promised myself I would surf the Tyler and nothing else. For the most part, I remained loyal to that board. (I think I surfed the Slick on one occasion.) See, I don't think I ever actually got the Tyler dialed in before this year. I've ridden it for years, yes. However, I didn't quite know how to fit it into my rotation of boards. The Slick was my every day longboard. I've got and had other boards for when I wanted something shorter. The Tyler, as a consequence, was not being given its due. This summer changed all of that. It was time for me to get serious about longboarding. There's no better board to do that on than a Tyler. Now that the summer is over, I can label the summer a success. The waves weren't good. But between the strength I gained from swimming and the consistently decent (albeit small) waves I found in the O.C., my surfing improved quite a bit.

I'll soon be setting the Tyler aside. Now I'm going to commit myself to my shorter boards, particularly the custom board I got right before summer began. I'm not looking forward to the horrendous surfing I'll be doing until I get these boards dialed in. That's the hardest part. I tend to stay on my longboards because I can surf them without embarrassing myself. Going two feet shorter while adding two fins is going to make for some interesting moments of kookiness. Bring it! I can't get better unless I embrace my inner kook.


At 9/6/07, 8:53 PM, Blogger jb said...

No matter what, don't give in to any frustrations you may experience. We weird ourselves out over stuff like this (I do it too), but the best part is that it's all surfing.

At 9/7/07, 4:37 PM, Blogger clayfin said...

Just remember, you paddle a longboard, you swim a short board. OK, there will still be a lot of paddling with your particular shorter boards, just stick with it and get used to being farther inside and taking off later. You'll be ready for yet another new board in a matter of months!

At 9/19/07, 11:58 AM, Blogger Sharkbait said...

I think you'll happily surprise yourself. You can really do it, I swear. And you'll be able to do it better when it's bigger on a smaller board. Seems counterintuitive, but it works!

You'll find yourself looking at the waves differently depending on which board you're on. That'll come naturally too.

Good luck and don't worry about being silly out there! I spend entire winters looking the fool!


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