Labor Day

It was one of the best sessions I've had in a long time. The conditions weren't epic by any means. Still, my crew was out. Peaks were everywhere. I was surfing for the third straight day. That's awfully close to perfect in my book. I got one wave (a left!!) that felt like I was just killing it. I could tell I was in the zone. I don't even know what I did. But after it was over, I kept hearing someone whistling. I didn't know that person was whistling at me. Turns out it was one of the OG locals (i.e., one of the guys who grew up surfing that break) trying to get my attention so he could tell me how good a wave that was. I was pumped after that. Now that I think about it, I did have a good session. I felt strong and ready to surf. I hadn't felt that way on Saturday and Sunday.

There isn't much to say about the session. Words won't do it justice. Simply put, it was a fun day with fun waves and fun people.