29 August 2006

I'm Still Here

I just haven't felt like blogging. I surfed on both weekend days, but something was pissing me off. Thus the reason for my silence. I don't want to speak in depth about what was pissing me off even though it was related to surfing. Both sessions were good ones nonetheless. We made a run to the Breakwater on Saturday. It wasn't spectacular. In fact, it was basically closed out. But for some reason I was fine with that and kept on going for it. CYT kept saying "tiger in your tank"—what is that from?—with regard to how I was surfing. Am I more aggressive than I used to be? I'm not sure. When I'm not dealing with a crowd, I tend to surf more aggressively simply because it's safe to do so. There wasn't what I would consider a crowd in the water. Had 10 more people been in the water, then it would have been crowded. I like that spot. The vibe can get a little testy, yes, but it's still a place I enjoy. The locals always treat me well, even if that means they ignore me. In surfing, being ignored by the locals means you're not pissing them off, right?

Somehow I ended up at El Porto on Sunday and once again enjoyed myself. I always think El Porto is going to kick my ass. Why? I guess I still flashback to my days as a cyclist, riding past El Porto and seeing all of the broken boards in the trashcans. I've heard stories about fellow surfers almost drowning or having to be rescued there. The mystique of that break is what gets to me. Thankfully, it was basically flat out there. That was perfect since I was meeting a friend from work who's learning how to surf. Once again, fun was had by one and all. The shape of the waves left much to be desired. However, there were rideable waves. That's always good enough for me. The place wasn't crowded when we paddled out. By the time I took my last wave in, the place was packed. I inadvertently dropped in on a guy during the session. I didn't see him when I started paddling for the wave. So when I dropped in, I realized I was cutting him off. That rarely happens. I'm so good about not snaking people. But that shows that sometimes you do accidentally cut people off. I immediately chanted: "Sorrysorrysorrysorrysorrysorry." Then I pulled out of the wave to let him have it. It took me awhile to find him after that. I wanted to let him know I did not intend to do it. When I found him, he told me he knew I hadn't meant to do it and that we were cool. He was a nice guy named Gabe who gives lessons down there. Anyway, he told me he knew what I'd done was an accident. The interesting thing is then he said, "But your friend . . . ." Hmmmm. Yes. My friend. Yes. Hmmmmm. He wasn't referring to the friend who was learning. He was referring to my other friend, the one who (in my opinion) always cuts people off. I'll end this post there since I'm now close to talking about what was pissing me off.


At 8/30/06, 7:32 AM, Anonymous local said...

you finally figured it out

At 8/31/06, 1:21 PM, Blogger reverb said...

...better socialize than yealing or boxing...


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