24 November 2005

Happy Turkey Day!!!

Yeah, I went out. Yeah, it was flat. How flat was it? Flat enough to make an uncrowded Malibu look like Malibu on a summer day. There were so few waves—seriously—that you had no choice but to paddle for them even though four other people were paddling too.

Most of the time, we were doing this:

Then one of the few and far between set waves would roll through. All of a sudden, those people above were doing this:

The waves were soft and mushy. There weren't many long rides to be had, yet you still ended up riding the waves within arm's reach of your fellow surfers:

I can't say that I didn't enjoy myself. The weather was fine. The water was glassy. People were nice. You really can't beat that, can you?


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