12 October 2005

Where to Begin?

I'm so tired that I don't even blog when I have the time. Even though I have the time, I don't have the capacity. At this point, I'm working on overload. I work over 40 hours a week. I still workout just about every day. I also get the child up and out in the morning. Then, once I come home, I've got to get two of us fed. This is all going to take some getting used to. I haven't hit my stride yet but it will come.

So, I'm a couple of sessions behind. Let's see . . . I went out last Friday at the home break. There were waves. They weren't good waves. They weren't shapely waves. They were generally closeout waves with steep drops. I don't like such drops, but I took them. I miss surfing so much that I wasn't going to miss waves just because of the drops. So I got a lot of waves because I willed myself to make the drops. Unfortunately, the rides weren't long. You'd have just enough time to make the drop, straighten out, and begin the climb back up the wave before being pummeled by the lip. One of the regulars described the waves as "weird". They certainly looked good when they approached. But then there was nothing to do with them once you were in. It wasn't one of my more enjoyable sessions. For one thing, I'm so scattered at this point that I'm not communicating with people well. For instance, I always surf with CYT, right? Since I had Friday off, we'd talked about doing our usual stuff. Well, she wanted to go to Malibu. I realized my day was going to be too busy and couldn't do Malibu. All of the communication about a Friday session was via voicemail. I thought she was going to call me back. She thought I was going to call her back. She assumed I'd swing by her house on Friday morning and waited for me. I assumed she'd go to Malibu without me. In other words, I was in the water while she was at home waiting for me. I take full blame for that one. It won't happen again. It made me realize I can't get scatterbrained just because I'm busy. In other words, I owe CYT one. If she wants, I'll put a perfect wax job on her board.

My plan was to go out yesterday as well. CYT called from the beach and said it was closed out. I didn't even care. I just wanted to get wet. So off to the beach I went with the funboard in tow. I've not ridden that board yet. I thought that with the waves increasing in size and energy, it was probably time to try the one tri-fin board in my quiver. I got to the beach and to my horror, it was flat!!!! I mean F-L-A-T flat!!! What the . . . ? Suffice it to say, I didn't get in. Frankly, I'm tired of these mediocre sessions. I want a session with some nice rides. I'm not all that picky. Perhaps I need a good NW swell. I don't know. Something's missing though. Part of it is me. I still don't know how to relax on my days off. I'm trying to do all of the things I don't have time for when I work. Now I realize that this is not the way to spend one's day off. My goal from here on in is to give myself ample time to surf and decompress. My next shot at that is Friday. I've planned a morning of surfing, a quick appointment in the afternoon, and my child's swim lesson in the later afternoon. Let's hope I can stick to that plan. And send me some surf karma!!! I don't require big waves. I simply want to see some shape out there!


At 10/12/05, 6:50 PM, Blogger Alan_M said...

I feel your pain on this one! I'm four months into new employment that is crimping my time, and especially my surf time. With the fading light it's gonna get worse too. My condolences. My new motto is get it while you can. If it's good, I surf until it's not good anymore, or my body gives out. This last weekend was an example. It took me until today to recover. At least I have no regrets about exiting the water too early. Hang in there, get it while you can!


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