02 October 2005

Is That What a NW Swell Looks Like?

I haven't seen one in so long that, frankly, I thought such creatures were now extinct. Obviously, I've been in the water. Can't say it was a stellar session or even a good one. Nonetheless, it was nice to be back in the lineup. Yesterday, I was torn between going to the home break and going to Bay Street. The latter became the ultimate destination. I called CYT on my way to the beach. She doesn't like the home break so Bay Street became the spot of choice. I got there first. I paddled out into a lake. Every once in awhile, a wave would kind of meander on through. Of course, I managed to pearl on my first two attempts at catching anything. I felt like I'd been out of the water for months. Finally, I caught a pretty good left that was long enough to allow me to carve up and down the wave. That's when I finally felt like my old self, the one that's still in the doo rag with hair that still hasn't locked. (Speaking of my hair, I know the locks are coming because my hair has finally stopped trying to untwist. When I started the twisting in July, my hair was constantly trying to straighten out. Now, you can see that the twists are holding and it seems that my hair understands it's not going to see a comb or brush again.) I missed my home break though. I usually don't mind sitting among strangers. I did yesterday. Anyway, the waves started out small and I caught a few. Then, out of nowhere, these set waves came crashing onto the beach. I hadn't seen waves like this in awhile. It was as if someone flipped a switch. The beach went from flat and calm to medium and energetic. Then, the fog rolled in and you couldn't see anything. I thought, "Oh, fine. CYT will never find me in all of this." So, I did what I do best—I kept surfing. I took one all the way to the shore. When I looked up the beach, I saw an outline that looked familiar. There was CYT. Somehow even in the fog, we found each other. We only stayed in for about 45 more minutes. Even though the waves had some power, they didn't have enough shape to deliver anything that was worthy of much more of my attention. I guess those were NW swell waves. I must say it was nice to see them return, even if they were closing out.

Right now, I'm in a perpetual state of tired. I'll get over that as soon as I find my rhythm. I haven't worked a 40+ hour work week in over a year. It takes some getting used to. Thankfully, I do like the job. I keep telling myself that by December I should have both dreadlocks and a pretty good understanding of this job. By thinking of my life in these terms, I spend less time lamenting my inability to surf every day. I won't be in this job forever . . . at least I don't think I will be. So I'll be back out there eventually.


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