16 September 2005

Should Have Stayed on Dry Land

Why did I even bother to get wet at RPB at high tide? Why? If I didn't know better then, I surely know better now. What a waste of time, gas, and anything else you can think of connected to a comparatively short trip in search of surf. Oh, the swell is here alright. It's doing its thing. It's packing a punch . . . everywhere except RPB at high tide. See, I thought since the swell was a good one, there would still be waves at this break even if the tide was wrong. I was, as usual, correct. (Aren't I always correct? What do you mean "no"?) The problem was the backwash. The set waves rolled through, ran smack dab into the rock cliffs, and then ran back toward the approaching waves. It made for a frustrating day in the water. You'd paddle for a wave only to have it wall up and mush out to the point of leaving you with a ledge from which to fall, if you so chose. The backwash killed everything. I.got.one.wave. Period. And it wasn't even a good one. I didn't have this kind of trouble yesterday. Of course, it was low tide when I got in yesterday. It was fine though. As I said some entries ago, I've surfed so much over the past few months that I feel quite lucky. This recent swell didn't excite me like it would have were I only able to get wet sproradically. Truthfully, my thoughts are with this job and with the possibilities it opens up for this family. Surfing is taking a backseat for now as I try to ensure that things turn out the way I'd like them to (in terms of that job) and as I suffer through these last few months of teaching. Perhaps I'll be ready when the next swell comes.

3 Comments:

At 9/16/05, 8:34 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

We're in the middle of a big tidal swing this weekend. If the tides weren't so drastic, the swell probably could've held up there at high tide. I checked RPB on the way to XXXX and I noticed it was shutdown (and that was 3 hours prior to the mornings high tide!!).

Live and learn. :-)

 
At 9/17/05, 9:08 PM, Blogger Jim said...

Damn, all those hours watching Point Break over and over and over, and I don't understand half of what your saying when you speak surf. Oh well.

How's the hair coming?

 
At 9/20/05, 9:03 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Oh, you should hear me and CYT discussing the "on shore" and "off shore" winds. One of us gets them confused. Then the other gets confused. And we spend a good five minutes figuring out what we're trying to say.

The hair is coming slowly. I don't have much kink in my hair so it's still a slow process. I do see progress though. The twists stay put now; my hair finally understands that it's supposed to be locking. I hope to have a head full of short, bona fide locks by December. (They'll be short because your hair loses some inches when it actually locks. Then, apparently, it begins to grow quickly.)

 

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