09 September 2005

Today's Pictorial

There we are, at a new break, heading into the surf. Notice the oh-so-fashionable doo rag on the left. Yep, that's me. It was also my first day in the new fullsuit. Me likey!!! And speaking of hair—mine is getting so long that the stocking cap/bandana solution is close to being useless. In a minute, I'll be in a hoodie. I have no other choice at this point.

The paddle out was nothing special. This was the only spot where we even saw a wave and I think we still managed to do the dry hair thing. The waves kind of picked up (or should I say jacked up and walled out) about 30 minutes later. Was it fun while it lasted? Well, from a can't-find-anything-to-surf-so-this-will-have-to-do standpoint, yes. From a looking-for-something-with-shape-size-and-consistency standpoint, no.

This was my only serious move of the day. I was heading backside, saw the wave closing out ahead of me, and finessed a hard turn back to the frontside. I kept wondering why things felt a little stiff today. After I saw the pictures, I realized that I wasn't standing far enough back on the board. So the turns took some work. I know better. I'm glad I have the pictures to remind me to stop popping up to the middle of the board.

The title of this one is "That's Gonna Leave a Mark". Did it ever!!! From the picture, it looks like I was able to fly through the back of the wave unscathed. Nope. The wave walled up and then pitched me backwards onto the log. Then the log lodged in my ribs and together we got worked. That one hurt. In all of my years as an athlete, I've never been hit in the ribcage. Now I know why people can't breathe when they break a rib. I came out of this wave with some soreness. I can't even imagine the actual pain involved in serious injuries to that part of the body.

Obviously, we found something to surf today. We started out at LPB. It was as flat as everything else we passed. In fact, we were suited up and waxing our boards, preparing to get in at LPB, when the guys who'd just headed down to the water came back . . . and they were dry. They said the conditions looked even worse from the shore. So we loaded the boards and ourselves, still fully suited up, back into the car and drove north. The pictures show what we found: short rides on pitching waves.

Who took the pictures? Soul Brother #1, of course.


At 9/10/05, 9:29 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

If you curled up to the size of a basketball you could've got some coverage on that last wave you have showing. :-)

At 9/11/05, 7:29 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Yeah! I see the barrel now that you mention it. And since I was standing over it and it was a miniature tube, I never even noticed it was going to do that.

At 9/13/05, 10:15 AM, Blogger Jeffery said...

I learned a new trick today that would have been perfect for you in the almost barell:

Scooch up to the nose, squat, and grab the outside rail to spin the board around counter-clockwise. You still mighta biffed it (or maybe rode out backward), but it would've looked cool as hell!

At 9/13/05, 12:59 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Yeah, I wish! I can't even tell if a wave is going to turn into a barrel--at least not yet. I haven't stepped up to the nose in awhile. And now that the winter waves are coming, I don't know that I'll be doing it any time soon. The waves are too big for that unless I'm at a point break. And even then, on a good day, the waves are too big for me to want to step to the nose. I just scream down the face (literally) and giggle. I guess I've got to stop doing that.

At 9/14/05, 12:49 PM, Blogger Chum said...

I love the last shot. Looks like you were actually in the tube but decided to stand up at the last second and saying, "I'm over it!" Biff.

At 9/16/05, 11:25 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Why don't you try taking off with a layback hand drag? Really get your self pretty speedy, cut the bottom, curl up and start dragging. It will slow you down a bit, but will keep you paralell to the wave. Then creep up, and stop dragging. Keep crouching, and almost guarenteed you'll get a barrel. or at least at my home break.

At 9/17/05, 7:42 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

Anonymous, surely you're confusing me with someone who has the presence of mind to remember to do that upon take-off. In fact, I don't think I've ever done a layback, let alone one with a hand drag. But now that I know what a barrel looks like from the water, I may have to try it. Thanks!


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